The mighty deep : $b and what we know of itGiberne, Agnes
Science
The mighty deep : $b and what we know of it
Giberne, Agnes
Marine biology; Nature study
Though few things are more wonderful than those vast rivers of air and
water, pouring always in the same direction, century after century,
they are perhaps less impressive from a man’s point of view than many a
mere whirling eddy, which flings itself along, rousing a huge flurry of
water, and soon dying out of existence. A man cannot grasp as a whole
the Trades or the Roaring Forties, with their companion ocean rivers.
Practically he knows only that little portion of each which happens to
be near his ship. If he is overtaken by a hurricane, the whole life of
which is compressed into a few miles of space and a few hours of time,
he feels a greater awe.
Small wonder that he should. Those impetuous and short-lived eddies
are terrible in their fury. Their winds blow with a fierceness never
approached by the stiffest Trade. A hurricane, tearing over Earth’s
surface at the rate of one hundred and twenty miles an hour, reduces
the most muscular of men to helplessness.
None the less, such a hurricane is in itself a mere accident, a mere
passing incident, a mere swirl of air, coming into being to adjust a
lost balance, and vanishing so soon as its work is done. We have seen
tiny swirls of air dancing along the road, on a windy day, sweeping up
bits of straw or dried leaves into their embrace. Such little swirls
are hurricanes in miniature. The real thing levels forests, wrecks
towns, lashes the ocean into mountainous heights of water, sinks
gallant ships, destroys human lives. Yet the little swirl and the
hurricane are closely akin.
Only in recent years has the circular--more strictly, the oval--shape
of a hurricane become known. It may be described as a revolving eddy
of air, the winds pouring in a corkscrew-like fashion round the
centre, inwards from without, and upwards from within. Another kind of
air-eddy, called an anti-cyclone, gyrates just the other way, downward
and outward. This usually brings light winds and dry weather, instead
of storms and rain.
One might imagine that in the centre of a wild cyclone a ship could
find safety, because there calm reigns. But the furious whirl of winds
all around raises tumultuous billows; and towards the centre, although
the winds themselves die down, the state of the sea is a perfect
“chaos” of tempestuous waves converging from all sides. Sailors strive
their utmost to avoid that central chaos.
CHAPTER VIII.
AN OCEAN OF AZURE
“The boom of the waves on the shingle.”--LEWIS MORRIS.
“Roll on, thou deep and dark-blue Ocean, roll!”--BYRON.
Not that the Ocean is always and everywhere blue. In a certain “arm of
the sea,” the Bristol Channel, it is commonly any tint that you please
rather than blue--brown, green, yellow, chocolate, only not the colour
that we love. If by chance it dons for a few hours a robe of azure,
that robe is merely a passing loan from the sky. And in dull weather it
can only be described as a huge puddle of muddy liquid.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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