The Mirror of the Graces: Containing General Instructions for Combining Elegance, Simplicity, and Economy with Fashion in Dress; Hints on Female Accomplishments and Manners; and Directions for the Preservation of Health and BeautyLady of distinction, active 19th century
History
The Mirror of the Graces: Containing General Instructions for Combining Elegance, Simplicity, and Economy with Fashion in Dress; Hints on Female Accomplishments and Manners; and Directions for the Preservation of Health and Beauty
Lady of distinction, active 19th century
Beauty, Personal; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain -- History -- 19th century; Etiquette -- Great Britain
“The mantle, or cottage-cloak, should never be worn by females
exceeding a moderate _embonpoint_; and we should recommend their
winter garbs, such as Russian pelisses and Turkish wraps, to be formed
of double sarsnet, or fine Merino cloth, rather than velvets, which
(except black) give an appearance of increased size to the wearer. In
the adoption of furs, flat-ermine or fringe fur is better suited to
the full-formed woman that swan’s-down, fox, chinchilla, or sable;
these are graceful for the more slender. Women of a spare habit, and
of a tall and elegant height, will derive considerable advantage from
the full-flowing robe, mantle, and Roman tunic. The fur-trimming, too,
gives to them an appearance of roundness which nature has denied; and
to this description of person we can scarcely recommend an evening
dress more chaste, elegant, and advantageous, than robes of white
satin, trimmed with swan’s-down, with draperies of silver or gossamer
net. The antique head-dress, or queen Mary _coif_, is best adapted to
the Roman and Grecian line of feature. The Chinese hat and Highland
helmet are becoming to countenances of a rounder and more playful
contour.
“We have frequently, in our observations, found occasion to lament, in
the present style of female dress, a want of that proper distinction
which should ever be attended to in the several degrees of _costume_.
For instance, the short gown, so appropriate and convenient for
walking, and pursuing morning avocations or exercises, intrudes
beyond its sphere when seen in the evening or full dress. It is in
the splendid drawing-room that the train robe appears with all that
superiority which gives pre-eminence to grace, and dignity to beauty.
“Why should these pleasingly-varying distinctions be neglected? The
long sleeve, too, (now so universal in almost every order of dress,)
belongs with strict propriety only to the domestic habit. These are
inattentions or faults which a correct taste will quickly discover, and
easily rectify. It is dangerous to level distinctions in one case, and
disadvantageous in the other. There should be a just and reasonable
discipline in trifles, as well as in matters of higher import. There is
a vast deal more in things of seeming insignificance than is commonly
imagined. Subjects of importance, high achievements, and glorious
examples, strike every beholder; but there are few who reflect that
it is by perseverance, and attention to comparative trifles, that
mighty deeds are performed, and that great consequences are ultimately
produced.
“A correct taste is ever the concomitant of a chaste mind; for,
as a celebrated author has justly observed, _our taste commonly
declines with our merit_. A correct taste is the offspring of all
that is delicate in sentiment and just in conception; it softens
the inflexibility of truth, and decks reason in the most persuasive
garments.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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