The Mirror of the Graces: Containing General Instructions for Combining Elegance, Simplicity, and Economy with Fashion in Dress; Hints on Female Accomplishments and Manners; and Directions for the Preservation of Health and BeautyLady of distinction, active 19th century
History
The Mirror of the Graces: Containing General Instructions for Combining Elegance, Simplicity, and Economy with Fashion in Dress; Hints on Female Accomplishments and Manners; and Directions for the Preservation of Health and Beauty
Lady of distinction, active 19th century
Beauty, Personal; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain -- History -- 19th century; Etiquette -- Great Britain
These preposterous fashions disappeared, in England, a short time after
the Restoration; they had been a little on the wane during the more
classic, though distressful reign of Charles I.; and what the beautiful
pencil of Vandyke shows us, in the graceful dress of Lady Carlisle and
Sacharissa, was rendered yet more correspondent to the soft undulations
of nature, in the garments of the lovely, but frail beauties of the
Second Charles’s court. But as change too often is carried to extremes,
in this case the unzoned tastes of the English ladies thought no
freedom too free; their vestments were gradually unloosened of the
brace, until another touch would have exposed the wearer to no thicker
covering than the ambient air.
The matron reign of Anne, in some measure, corrected this indecency.
But it was not till the accession of the House of Brunswick, that it
was finally exploded, and gave way by degrees to the ancient mode of
female fortification, by introducing the hideous Parisian fashion of
hoops, buckram stays, waists to the hips, screwed to the circumference
of a wasp, brocaded silks stiff with gold, shoes with heels so high as
to set the wearer on her toes; and heads, for quantity of false hair,
either horse or human, and height to outweigh, and perhaps outreach,
the Tower of Babel! These were the figures which our grandmothers
exhibited; nay, such was the appearance I myself made in my early
youth; and something like it may yet be seen at a drawing-room, on
court-days.
When the arts of Sculpture and Painting, in their fine specimens from
the chisels of Greece and the pencils of Italy, were brought into this
country, taste began to mould the dress of our female youth after their
more graceful fashion. The health-destroying boddice was laid aside;
brocades and whale-bone disappeared; and the easy shape and flowing
drapery again resumed the rights of nature and of grace. The bright
hues of auburn, raven, or golden tresses, adorned the head in its
native simplicity, putting to shame the few powdered _toupees_, which
yet lingered on the brow of prejudice and deformity.
Thus, for a short time, did the Graces indeed preside at the toilet of
the British beauty; but a strange caprice seems now to have dislodged
these gentle handmaids. Here stands affectation distorting the form
into a thousand unnatural shapes; and there, ill-taste, loading it
with grotesque ornaments, gathered (and mingled confusedly) from
Grecian and Roman models, from Egypt, China, Turkey, and Hindostan.
All nations are ransacked to equip a modern fine lady; and, after all,
she may perhaps strike a contemporary _beau_ as _a fine lady_, but no
son of nature could, at a glance, possibly find out that she meant to
represent an _elegant woman_.
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