The Modern Athens: A dissection and demonstration of men and things in the Scotch Capital. — John Shaqi
The Modern Athens: A dissection and demonstration of men and things in the Scotch Capital.Mudie, Robert
General
The Modern Athens: A dissection and demonstration of men and things in the Scotch Capital.
Mudie, Robert
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
Access was by no means difficult to be obtained, nor was my ascent
to the top of the ancient structure without its pleasures. In the
first place, I passed through the apartments of the fair queen of
Scotland,--the fairest, and all things considered, perhaps, the
frailest of royal ladies; and there I found the whole localities of
Rizzio’s murder, well preserved both in appearance and in tradition. In
the second place, I had the pleasure of seeing upon the leads, dressed
in the plain tartan of her adopted clan, the fair Lady Glenorchy, who
possesses all the charms of Mary, without any of her faults. I am not
sure that I ever saw a finer woman; I am sure that I never saw one in
whose expression intellect was more blended with sweetness, or spirit
softened and enriched by modesty and grace.
Besides those intellectual (is that the term?) pleasures, there were
other things which rendered my locality the best of any: First, it
commanded a larger and better view of the procession; and, secondly,
though Edinburgh looks romantic from my situation, there is none where
it becomes so perfect a fairy tale. While I paced along the leads
of the palace, and I had ample time to do it, I was more and more
rivetted, both in motion and in gaze, by the wonderful scene. Eastward
was the expanse of blue water, widening and having no boundary in
the extreme horizon, and confined every where else between the soft,
green, lovely, and productive shores of Lothian and Fife. Along the
whole visible portion of the waters, no ship was going forth upon
her voyage, but many were cruizing towards the port of Leith by the
combined powers of every thing that enables man to make his way upon
the deep. Northward rose the Calton Hill, ornamented with one of the
best and one of the worst specimens of modern architecture, having a
park of artillery and a picquet of horsemen upon its summit, and its
sides groaning under the weight of a multitude which no man could
count. Sufficiently elevated at one place for throwing its more
elevated objects against the sky, and rapid enough in its slope for
bringing out at whole length the masses of people who occupied it, the
Calton did not conceal either the royal squadron in Leith roads, or
the majestic summits of the remote Grampians,--from which every cloud
and every trace of mist had been brushed away, when I first ascended,
while the strong and peculiar refraction that the atmosphere in such
cases exerts, gave to them only half their distance and double their
height, as if the mountains themselves had raised them from the beds
of their primeval residence, and come near, to behold the splendour
which the Athens had put on, and the glory with which she hoped to be
blessed. Towards the south, Salisbury Craggs and Arthur’s Seat raised
their summits to the mid heaven, and threw their broad shadows over
the valley, into which the beams of light which poured in at the
openings of the majestic wall of rock, seamed the blue shadow as the
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