The Modern Athens: A dissection and demonstration of men and things in the Scotch Capital.Mudie, Robert
General
The Modern Athens: A dissection and demonstration of men and things in the Scotch Capital.
Mudie, Robert
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
Upon hurrying into the street,--into that Princes’ street, which, as
I afterwards learned, is at certain seasons of the year the favourite
lounge of the Athenian dandies, and at certain hours of the day the
favourite haunt of the Athenian fair, who resort thither as the
clock strikes four, to feast their fair and anxious eyes upon the
self-important forms of dashing advocates, the more dapper and pursey
ones of pawkie writers to his Majesty’s signet, or the attenuated
striplings of the quill--the future Clerks and Jefferys, who at that
hour are returning from the harvest of law and profits to such feast
as awaits them in ample hall or elevated cock-loft, according to their
talents, their connexions, or their purses;--upon hurrying into that
street, in the expectation of feasting my eyes upon the natural and
architectural glories of the city, I found that those glories were in
the mean time veiled in the maddening preparations of a whole people,
who had come from every portion of the main land, and from the remotest
isle of Thulè, to wonder at and to admire that mightiest marvel of
human nature--a king.
So novel and so varied were the costumes, so unexpected and so
singular were the features and expressions, and so uncouth and
Babylonish were the voices, that the eye and the ear were confounded,
the judgment could not understand, and the memory could preserve no
record. Here you might see some brawny and briefless barrister--the
younger son of a loyal family, with a pedigree at least twice as
long as its rental, with trowsers and jacket _à la_ Robin Hood,
and huge blue bonnet adorned with the St. Andrew’s cross and a
turkey-cock’s feather--looking for all the world like a chimney-sweep’s
Jack-o’-the-Green, or a calf dressed entire and garnished with
cabbage-leaves; while close by him trotted a loyal toast-composing
crown-lawyer, with his hinder end cased in a phillibeg, a feathered
bonnet, at least a third of his own height, an iron-hilted sword
somewhat more than the whole, and a dirk that might have served for
a plough-share, puffing and blowing under the weight of his own
importance, and the accoutrements of the Celtic society. In close
juxtaposition with these was a genuine _Glhuine dhu_, plaided, plumed,
and whiskered, and looking as if all the kings of the earth were
nothing to that swaggering chieftain, of whose _tail_ he formed no
inconsiderable portion. In another place you could catch the broad
face and broader bonnet of a lowland farmer of the old school, cased
in one uniform garb of home-made blue, with brass buckles to his
shoes, a brass key suspended to his watch by a tough thong of black
leather, greasy enough,--holding solemn colloquy with that reverend
member of the Scottish Kirk, to whom he acted in the capacity of ruling
elder, about the danger of compromising the interests of the Whig or
_high-flying_ part of that establishment, during the _avatar_ of so
many Tories. The reverend gentleman himself was no bad sight. His
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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