Time would fail us to go through all the courts and halls of the
comprehensive building, and we must make our way over the road that
crosses the ravine of Los Molinos, bordered with figs and pistachios,
laurels and roses, to the other palace, the Generalife, or "Garden of
the Surveyor." This is the "Country House" of the greater palace, and,
so far as the exterior of the building is concerned, presents the usual
simplicity of Oriental structures. Here are the walls without windows,
the terraces, the galleries, the arcades--all of which are in a state of
ruin. The delicate arabesques are covered with thick layers of
whitewash; the fine sculptures have disappeared, and the internal beauty
of the edifice has long since departed; but the charm of the gardens and
waters remains. A rapid stream runs through an artificial channel of
marble the entire length of the enclosure under a series of arcades and
leafy screens formed by curiously twisted yews, while cypresses and
orange trees cast their cooling shadows upon the waters. Jets and
fountains, rapid-flowing streams and placid ponds, little basins
nestling under ancient bays, murmuring rivulets and winding courses
reflecting the blue of the sky, are intermingled with the utmost
perfection of skill, and the combination forms one of the most charming
effects that can be imagined.
[Illustration: GARDEN OF THE GENERALIFE, GRANADA.]
"Here," says Irving, "is everything to delight a southern voluptuary:
fruits, flowers, fragrance, green arbours and myrtle hedges, delicate
air and gushing water. Here I had an opportunity of witnessing those
scenes which painters are fond of depicting about southern palaces and
gardens. It was the saint's day of the Count's daughter, and she had
brought up several of her youthful companions from Granada to sport away
a long summer's day among the breezy halls and bowers of the Moorish
palace. A visit to the Generalife was the morning's entertainment. Here
some of the gay companions dispersed themselves in groups about the
green walks, the bright fountains, the flight of Italian steps, the
noble terraces, and marble balustrades. Others, among whom I was one,
took their seats in an open gallery or colonnade, commanding a vast
prospect; with the Alhambra, the city, and the Vega far below, and the
distant horizon of mountains--a dreamy world, all glimmering to the eye
in summer sunshine. While thus seated, the all-pervading tinkling of the
guitar and click on the castanets came stealing up the valley of the
Darro, and half-way down the mountain we descried a festive party under
the trees enjoying themselves in true Andalusian style; some lying on
the grass, others dancing to the music."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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