The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
6. The Cathedral of St. Castor, dating from about the eleventh
century, has been reconstructed and restored so much that the
western façade is the chief survival of the original church. Its
richly carved frieze, showing scenes from the Book of Genesis, is
of great interest.
7. The Pont-du-Gard (about fourteen miles north from Nîmes, near
the town of Ramoulins) is one of the most imposing Roman works in
the world. It is part of the aqueduct, twenty-five miles long,
which brought water to Nîmes, and is still practically perfect
to-day. It was built in 19 B.C., in the time of Agrippa; some
repairs were made in 1702, and again in 1855. From the steep sides
of the river one can easily reach the top of the aqueduct, and walk
the whole length of the waterway or on the slabs of stone which
cover it in for a considerable distance. Looking down over the
orange-coloured stone of the superimposed arches, one sees the
myrtle-green waters of the River Gardon rushing between grey rocks
156 feet below.
Remains of the reservoir to which the water was led still survive
in Nîmes.
THE ROAD TO ARLES
From Nîmes the road is practically level all the way to Arles, whether
one goes by St. Gilles or direct through Bellegarde.
ST. GILLES
The St. Gilles route is only seven kilometres longer, and the slightly
increased distance will not be regretted when the remarkable church has
been seen. It was planned on a vast scale, and, if carried out, would
have been one of the finest Byzantine churches in France; but for some
reasons, perhaps connected with the decline of St. Gilles as a port
owing to the constant silting up of the Rhone delta, or possibly owing
to war or pestilence or a weakening of religious enthusiasm, the great
structure was never finished, and a smaller church in the Gothic style
is all that came to completion. It embodies, however, the splendid
western façade of the earlier scheme, and the details of its columns,
its mutilated statues and carved enrichments, are finer even than those
of St. Trophime at Arles. The abbot of the monastery, which had been
founded by St. Egidius in the sixth century, administered justice seated
between the grotesque lions of the portal, and the charters often began
with, ‘_Sedente inter leones_.’ The crypt, the tomb of St. Gilles and
his altar, the twelfth-century sacristy, and the _Vis de S. Gilles_, a
remarkably fine newel staircase, should all be seen. There is also a
restored Romanesque house in the town of St. Gilles.[J]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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