goes out of Orange _past_ the Roman arch--those who drive in the dark should remember that there is no roadway _through_ it. The River Aigues is crossed, and then, bearing to the left, the road skirts a hill and passes through the old town of =Piolenc,= with remains of its ramparts and a Cluniac priory or château. At Mornas there is a gateway with a picturesque street inside. Along the overhanging precipices of rock above the houses stand the ruins of the castle, built in the twelfth century, and among the broken walls, thrown down during the religious wars, there is a small chapel and crypt of the Romanesque period. The Popes of Avignon had a toll on the Rhone at Mornas, and in the days of religious intolerance it is said that it was no uncommon thing to see the corpses of Protestants floating down the river. Along this portion of the Rhone medieval castles are thickly sown. In nearly every direction one sees one or two precipitous rocks standing out conspicuously, their summits crowned with great towers and crenellated walls in varying states of ruin. One of these is at Montdragon, standing out boldly on a cliff above the village. It was founded in the eleventh century by a chieftain who bore the name of Dragon. In April the villages are beautified with the delicately subtle blue of the wistaria. This touch of colour is wanted, for, owing to the dust of the Rhone Valley, the villages are all toned down to a pale biscuit colour, and even where a patch of green grass offers a wayfarer resting-ground one finds on reaching it that the blades of grass grow thinly from a soil composed of pale whity-brown dust. Every passing vehicle raises the surface of the road high in the air, and a fast car is a terror to all it passes. Lapalud, with a Romanesque church, is typical of the dusty roadside village, and its _three cassis_ in the road should be watched for carefully. The level vineyards are intersected with straight lines of cypresses or poplars, and on the right the hills rise suddenly and precipitously. Pierrelatte is a rather poor little town with cobbled streets, intersected with _three bad cassis_. There is a covered market and a clock-tower, and on the isolated mass of rock giving its name to the town are slight ruins of a castle. As one approaches Donzère the arid hills, whose fronts are broken up with strange valleys filled with detached masses and spires of rock, contract the valley to narrow dimensions. The town has kept its old walls and a machicolated gateway, which makes a pleasing picture when the wistaria on an adjoining house is in flower. In the town are the ruins of a château and the interesting church of the abbey, founded in 678. This early church was demolished by the Saracens, but the existing building goes back to the twelfth century.