The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
The Church of St. Maclou stands back a few paces from the east side of
the Rue de la République, and one comes upon its wondrous display of
delicately carved stone all of a sudden. It is an exquisite example of
the Flamboyant style, having been commenced in 1436 and completed about
1480. The present spire was only finished in 1868, the previous one,
covered with lead, having suffered much through a storm, and later
during the Revolution.
The wonderful doors, with their remarkable carving, and the splendid
tympanum above the central one, date between the years 1527 and 1560. In
that period it is possible that some of the carving was executed by Jean
Goujon, who was afterwards killed in the massacre of St. Bartholomew.
St. Maclou was a Scotsman who went to Brittany, was made Bishop of
Aleth, and died in 561. The first church dedicated to him was built in
the tenth century outside the walls of Rouen. A passage on the north
side of the Rue Martainville (which runs from the north side of St.
Maclou) leads into the Aître St. Maclou, a picturesque little cloister
built in 1526, surrounding a paved courtyard, which was a burial-ground
at the time of the plague of 1348--the Black Death that claimed 100,000
victims in the city.
Jeanne d’Arc.--The tragedy of the
[Illustration: THE TOWERS OF ST. OUEN AT ROUEN.
St. Ouen is, next to the Cathedral, the finest church of Rouen.]
martyrdom,--or, more properly, the murder--of the Maid of Orleans, who
saved her country from the English, cannot be forgotten by the visitor
to Rouen. There are still houses standing near the cathedral which were
there in her day, and were the lodgings of some of her heartless judges;
there is still the great pile of Notre Dame, standing much as it stood
in her day, although the later Flamboyant work, including the Tour de
Beurre, had not then appeared; and there still remains one solitary
tower of the castle of Rouen in which Jeanne was confined. The tower was
never her prison, but in the ground floor she was intimidated by being
shown instruments of torture. The visitor can enter this chamber, which
was the scene of that callous brutality to a most innocent maiden, who,
encouraged by her implicit belief in the vision of her saints, bore
herself throughout with a fortitude and heroism which baffled and
enraged her inquisitors.
It is a pity that the tower has been over-restored, and that the walls
are hung with wreaths of artificial flowers. There is also a statue of
the maid and many prints hung on the walls, but their interest is not
commensurate with the subtraction from the grimness of the tower which
they cause.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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