The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley — John Shaqi
The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
Standing at a fork in the middle of the town is the Church of Notre
Dame, whose outline is marred by an uncompleted tower, but whose
profusion of the most elaborate fifteenth-century carving leaves the
wondering spectator almost breathless. The writer once, several years
ago, commenced a drawing of the south aisle and porch, but it remains
to-day as unfinished as the tower just mentioned! All the lacework
carving is on the most obvious side of the church, and is an addition of
the Flamboyant period. Its extraordinary wealth of detail repays the
closest scrutiny, for among canopied niches and flame-patterned parapets
are the grotesque heads of gargoyles and representations of such
creatures as the monkey and the bat. The north side of the church shows
the greatest contrast imaginable to all this delicate beauty. It is
plain and bare thirteenth-century work, with the fortified tower built
about the year 1366, a few years after the town had been half destroyed
by the English, when the citizens set to work to fortify their town,
which hitherto had relied for protection solely on the fact that
Louviers was a possession of the Archbishop of Rouen. The
thirteenth-century interior, with its double aisles, giving wonderful
perspectives of pillars, is one of the most remarkable in Normandy.
Gisors (see Section XXVII.) also has double aisles, but their loftiness
gives an entirely different effect to those at Louviers. The dark brown
pulpit has its sounding-board supported by a couple of carved wooden
palm-trees. Some picturesque old houses remain in the old part of the
town near the church, and although the town is given up to a
considerable extent to woolen factories, it is still a pleasant place,
surrounded by the beautiful pastoral scenery of the River Eure.
A terrible incident of the Hundred Years’ War took place in 1418, when
Louviers fell into the hands of the English, in spite of its newly built
wall, and 120 of its most wealthy merchants were condemned to death. In
1431, in spite of an heroic defence, the English again entered the town,
and burnt and destroyed so heartlessly that it is a wonder that the town
ever recovered, and yet in the last years of the same century the
amazing mass of ornament was added to the south side of the church.
THE ROAD TO EVREUX
Continuing through the main street of Louviers in a straight line past
the church, the road runs by the side of the River Eure, with wooded
hills on the right. A picturesque half-timbered château, with pepper-box
turrets, is passed on the left, and
[Illustration: THE ROAD NEAR ROUEN.
A typical corner on the road between Rouen and Pont de l’Arche.]
old church lying a little way from the road on the same side.
[Illustration: No. 3. ROUEN TO EVREUX.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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