The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
For long distances the river seems so very little below the level of the
surrounding country that there seems scarcely any reason why it should
keep to the course it now follows. In wet seasons the flat, sandy shores
are often covered by the river, which spreads out into broad lagoons and
engulfs the grassy islands.
At Meung, where the road bends to the right, there is an interesting
abbey church, founded in the sixth century by St. Liphard. It was burnt
by Louis le Gros in the early part of the eleventh century, but before
its close the church had been rebuilt with the exception of the tower.
This western tower, with a pyramidal spire, is connected with a curtain
wall to a thirteenth-century fortified tower, the oldest part of the
castle of the Bishops of Orleans, which was chiefly built in the classic
period of some 400 years later. The village has some old houses, and the
Porte Amont, rebuilt in the seventeenth century.
BEAUGENCY
The first glimpse of this compact little town is very suggestive of
antiquity. It is overshadowed by a huge Norman keep, about whose
lichened parapets jackdaws circle and flutter, and across the river
stands the oldest bridge on the Loire--some of its twenty-six arches
going back to the thirteenth century.
The keep is called the Tour de César, and it is all that now remains of
the first Castle, built at the end of the eleventh century. The other
portions were constructed in 1440 by Dunois, the Bastard of Orleans, who
maintained the defence of Orleans against the English until relieved by
Jeanne d’Arc. There is a most picturesque courtyard with open arcading
and a tower, and the great hall, known as the Salle de Jeanne d’Arc, has
a huge fireplace. The buildings are now a Depôt de Mendicité.
Close to the castle is the Transitional Church of the Benedictine Abbey
of Notre Dame, finished at the end of the twelfth century, and lately
restored. It was burnt by the Protestants in 1567, when they committed
terrible excesses in the town. Besides the church, there is nothing left
of the abbey buildings, except an old circular tower called the Tour du
Diable and the Abbot’s house.
Adjoining the Hôtel St. Étienne[A] there is a picturesque wooden house
with moulded beams and much carving, and along one side of the hotel
courtyard is the disused Church of St. Étienne, a very interesting and
perfect little cruciform building of the eleventh century or earlier. It
has a central tower, and the windows are small and very deeply splayed.
Being kept locked, the plain barrel vaulting of the interior can only be
dimly seen through the unglazed windows.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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