The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
Before the year 1519 there had been only the grim and gloomy feudal
castle of Chambourg on the site, and the excellent hunting in the scrub
and swamps of the Sologne (the name given to this marshy district) was
the only reason for the visits of the Court. But in that year François
I. began the construction of the existing château in place of the old
one; and belonging to that era of magnificence when the Renaissance
influence was being felt throughout Europe, he built the largest and
most splendid hunting-box the world has ever seen. Although 1,800
workmen were employed year after year to carry out Pierre Nepveu’s
designs, when the King died, in 1547, only the central portion and the
east wing, which contained his own apartments, were completed. His
successor, Henri II., added a wing, but liked Anet better, and Charles
IX. and Catherine de Medici preferred Chenonceaux, Blois, and Chaumont.
Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. regarded it as a hunting-box, but the latter
came to the amazing conclusion, after his first visit to the place with
his Court, that it was too small, and plans were prepared for two
additional wings, which, however, were never built, although the
foundations of one were laid; on them were built, in the eighteenth
century, the barracks still to be seen. They were for the accommodation
of the regiment of Uhlan horse, with which the famous Marshal Maurice de
Saxe, of Fontenoy fame, amused himself when in retirement at Chambord.
It is, however, the figure of the magnificent François I., the King who,
at the death of his English neighbour, spoke of Henry VIII. as his old
friend, to whom one’s thoughts turn in walking through the great
Renaissance courtyard and the innumerable and vast apartments ornamented
on every side with his fiery salamander. In spite of their rich coffered
ceilings the apartments are cold and bare, and need the sumptuous
furnishings of the sixteenth century and the King himself apparelled in
his favourite pink or blue Italian velvet.
In the middle of the central pile of buildings is a remarkable double
staircase, so arranged that those ascending by one spiral cannot be seen
by those coming down the other. This no doubt had its uses and
advantages in the sixteenth century, when Court intrigue added a zest to
life.
The custodian takes visitors on to the roofs, where the extraordinary
detail of the chimneys, balustrades, turrets, and dormers can be seen
closely. The uncarved surfaces of stone are generally adorned with
slate cut into various patterns and fixed up with nails.
Nearly all the hundreds of rooms are vast, bare, and lifeless, and one
feels in the echoing spaces that the tide of social progress has left
such colossal buildings--the greatest that the final phase of feudalism
produced--far away on a half-forgotten beach of history.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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