The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley — John Shaqi
The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
_The Churches of Poitiers._--Among the Romanesque churches Notre
Dame-la-Grande makes the greatest impression, owing to its hoary west
front, encrusted with the strange carving of the eleventh and twelfth
centuries, to which the building as a whole belongs. The life of the
Virgin is shown in the lowest sculptures, and the other rows of figures
represent the Apostles, St. Hilaire and St. Martin. On the right side
the figures of two wrestlers appear to be in every way similar to those
on the remarkable Norman font at Cowlam, in the East Riding of
Yorkshire. The gable above has a figure of Christ triumphant. It is
interesting to notice that the lower parts of the walls seem to belong
to an earlier church, possibly of the eighth or ninth century. The
interior is covered with crude painting in herring-bone, zigzag, and
striped patterns, giving a strange atmosphere to the church, almost
suggesting that one was in Southern Spain.
The Cathedral of St. Pierre was largely built at the expense of Henry
II. of England and Eleanor of Aquitaine, all the principal work being
completed before the death of Henry in 1189. It is therefore a
Romanesque building, with the exception of the western façade, with its
two low towers, and the north door, which were added in the thirteenth
century, and are therefore Gothic. The exterior is disappointing on
account of the restoration, which has robbed it of the charms of age.
With only one exception--that of Notre Dame de la Roche, near
Chevreuse--the choir-stalls are the oldest in France, dating from 1235
to 1257, and the stained glass includes some remarkable windows at the
east end, of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. The most interesting
is the one of the Crucifixion, which also shows Henry II. and Eleanor.
St. Hilaire-le-Grand was reconstructed in the tenth and eleventh
centuries on the site of a Roman building. During the siege by Coligny
in the Huguenot wars the tower was damaged so much that it eventually
fell, crushing the façade and the west end of the nave. This nave, which
has been restored with one bay less, is the only one in France with
triple aisles, and the effect is that of five naves with two aisles, or
even of seven naves. On the walls there are paintings attributed to the
eleventh or thirteenth centuries, and in the southernmost aisle there is
an Early Christian sarcophagus lid of the fourth or sixth century. St.
Porchaire has retained its very beautiful tower, built at the end of the
eleventh century. The three tiers of arcading, enriched with carved
capitals, corbels, and mouldings, leave no surface unadorned. The church
is otherwise a poor reconstruction of the sixteenth century, and is only
interesting for the sixth-century sarcophagus of St. Porchaire under an
altar.
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