P. 49. Curiously enough in a music critic's account of a voyage
in Spain (H. T. Finck's "Spain and Morocco") only a single page is
devoted to a discussion of Spanish music or dancing. The author is not
sympathetic. The rhythmic and dynamic features of the performance which
so aroused the delight of Chabrier only annoy Mr. Finck. I quote his
account which begins with an experience at Murcia: "In the evening I
came across an interesting performance in the street. A woman and a
man were singing a duet, accompanying themselves with a guitar and a
mandolin, making a peculiarly pleasing combination, infinitely superior
to the performances of the Italian bards who accompany themselves
with hand-organs or cheap harps, not to speak of the horrible German
beer-bands which infest our streets. It was indeed so agreeable that
I followed the couple for several blocks. But with the exception of a
students' concert in Seville, it was almost the only good music I heard
in Spain. Madrid and Barcelona have ambitious operatic performances in
winter, and the Barcelonese go so far as to claim that they sing and
understand Wagner better than the Berliners; but as the opera-houses
were closed while I was there, I have no comments to offer on this
boast. In a café chantant which I visited in Seville I heard, instead
of national airs, vulgar French women singing a French version of
'Champagne Charley' and similar vulgar things; no one, it is true,
cared for these songs, whereas a rare bit of national melody in the
program was wildly applauded; but fashion of course must have her
sway. At another café the music was thoroughly Spanish, with guitar
accompaniment; but, according to the usual Spanish custom, there were
a dozen persons on the stage who clapped their hands so loudly, to
mark the rhythm, that the music degenerated into a mere rhythmic noise
accompanying the dancing. These dances interest the Spanish populace
much more than any kind of music, and I was amused occasionally to see
a group of working men looking on the grotesque amateur dancing of one
or two of their number with an expression of supreme enjoyment, and
clapping their hands in unison to keep time."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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