The Mute Stones Speak: The Story of Archaeology in ItalyMacKendrick, Paul Lachlan
History
The Mute Stones Speak: The Story of Archaeology in Italy
MacKendrick, Paul Lachlan
Italy -- Antiquities
The stuccoes of the vault were in excellent condition when found.
(They have since suffered from dampness, now being corrected by
air-conditioning.) Also, they show no traces of addition or repairs,
but the wall-panels were desecrated in antiquity by vandals, the
consoles for offerings ripped off, the lamps and chapel gear carried
away. It looks as though the chapel had had a short life, and the cult
a violent end. Will history provide a date? Tacitus mentions in his
_Annals_ a rich Roman, Titus Statilius Taurus, known to have owned
property near the basilica, who fell foul of Claudius, was accused
of practicing _magicas superstitiones_, and escaped his sentence by
committing suicide in A.D. 53. The style of the stuccoes fits this
date, the décor of the basilica fits the cult, its state when found
fits Tacitus’ story. We may suppose that everything within reach was
looted, the chamber filled in, and probably never seen again until the
spring day 1864 years later when the landslide by the railway revealed
its existence.
* * * * *
In 1907 the German archaeologist F. Weege, following in the footsteps
of Renaissance explorers of 1488, made his way through a hole in the
wall of the Baths of Trajan, near the Coliseum, to find himself in a
labyrinth of underground vaulted corridors and rooms partly filled with
rubble, which had once been part of an Imperial palace, the Golden
House of Nero. Setting lighted candles at every turning to guide his
way back, he explored as many as he could of the eighty-eight rooms of
this small part of the palace-complex, sometimes crawling with lighted
candle over rubble that filled a room nearly to the vault, while
spiders and centipedes, and other nameless creatures scuttled away from
him into the darkness.
The rooms had been filled with rubble by Trajan, with a twofold
purpose: to make a firm substructure for his baths, and to continue
the work of the Flavians in damning the memory of the conspicuous
consumption and conspicuous waste of the hated Nero. Thirteen
hundred and eighty-four years later, when the underground rooms were
rediscovered, among the visitors was Raphael, who decorated a loggia
in the Vatican Palace in the style of the fantastic paintings on
Nero’s walls. Since the buried rooms were grottoes, the paintings
were “grotesques”--as often, the word has survived, while its history
has been forgotten. Other visitors were Caravaggio, Velasquez,
Michelangelo, and Raphael’s teacher, Perugino. The names of many a
famous artist are scrawled right across the face of the ornaments of
the vaults. An Italian poem, written not long after the discovery of
America, speaks of artists’ underground picnics in the Golden House.
The picnickers crawled on their bellies to enjoy their subterranean
meal of bread, ham, apples, and wine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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