The Mute Stones Speak: The Story of Archaeology in ItalyMacKendrick, Paul Lachlan
History
The Mute Stones Speak: The Story of Archaeology in Italy
MacKendrick, Paul Lachlan
Italy -- Antiquities
The result of Weege’s more scientific investigation was the working out
of a new plan. The western half of the complex (Fig. 7.11) proved to
be conventional, with the rooms grouped about a peristyle with garden
and fountain. Rooms 37 and 43 have alcoves: it is easy to imagine them
as the Imperial bedchambers of Nero and his beautiful red-haired wife
Poppaea. In Nero’s bedchamber were hung the 1808 gold crowns he won in
athletic competitions in Greece, if competitions they can be called,
when all the prizes were awarded to Nero in advance, and armed guards
drove off all would-be rivals.
The eastern wing (Fig. 7.12) is more unorthodox in plan, and more
interesting. The main approach opened into Room 60, the Hall of the
Gilded Vault, so called from the ornate painted stucco ceiling,
divided into round and rectangular fields in gilt, green, red and
blue, depicting mythological and erotic scenes, very different in tone
from the restraint of the subterranean basilica. Hippolytus, off to
the hunt, receives a letter containing incestuous proposals from his
stepmother Phaedra. Satyrs rape nymphs, Venus languishes in the arms of
Mars, Cupid rides in a chariot drawn by panthers. And yet we are told
that the painting in this pleasure dome was done by the solemn dean of
Roman artists, Fabullus himself, the John Singer Sargent of his day,
who always painted in full dress, wearing his toga.
[Illustration: FIG. 7.11 Rome, Golden House, west wing.
(G. Lugli, _Roma antica_, p. 358)]
[Illustration: FIG. 7.12 Rome, Golden House, east wing.
(G. Lugli, _op. cit._, p. 359)]
Room 70 is a vaulted corridor 227 feet long, with sixteen windows
opening to the north in the impost of the vault, which is painted
sky-blue as a _trompe d’oeil_. Seabeasts, candelabra, and arabesques,
sphinxes with shrubs growing out of their backs, griffins, centaurs,
acanthus-leaves, Cupids, gorgons’ heads, lions’ heads with rings in
their mouths, dolphins holding horns of plenty, winged horses, eagles,
tritons, swags of flowers make up the riotous décor. In recesses
in the walls landscapes and seascapes, impressionistically painted,
attempt the illusion of the out-of-doors. Halfway down the corridor the
vault is lowered. Here it supported a ramp which led to the gardens
above.
Room 84 is octagonal, lighted by a hole in the roof, anticipating, as
we shall see, Hadrian’s Pantheon. Perhaps this was the state dining
room, described by ancient sources as hung on an axis and revolving
like the world. Its ivory ceilings slid back and dropped flowers and
perfumes on Nero’s guests.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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