The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expeditionRoutledge, Katherine
History
The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expedition
Routledge, Katherine
Easter Island; Oceania -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
At Llay-Llay we took the easterly line, which ascends a valley full of
prosperous cultivation, till it reaches the little town of Los Andes,
where the Chilean state railway ends and the Trans-Andine service
begins. The two ends of this railway, the Chilean and Argentine, are in
the hands of different companies, which naturally adds much to the
difficulty of working the line. The trains run on alternate days in each
direction. There is a comfortable hotel at Los Andes where passengers
sleep the previous night in order to start the journey over the pass at
7 a.m.; much of the revenue of the line, however, is derived, not from
the passenger traffic, but from the cattle brought from the ranches of
the Argentine to Chile. The Chilean company is an English one, and the
manager, Mr. J. H. White, was good enough to arrange for us to travel
with the French minister, who happened to be quitting Santiago, in an
observation car at the end of the train; we had, therefore, both
pleasant company and most excellent views of the pass. The line winds up
a valley, which grows ever narrower between precipitous mountain-sides,
but as long as any green thing can find a footing the cultivation is
intense; where the incline is most steep a cog-wheel is employed.
Presently every trace of vegetation is left behind, and the route enters
on its grandest and wildest phase. Bleak rock masses tower to the sky on
every hand, and on their lower slopes rest masses of boulders, which
have descended at some earlier stage in the world’s history. When a
great height has been attained a little lake is reached, which, with its
colouring of gorgeous blue, resembles a perfect turquoise in a grey
setting. At 10,000 feet the highest point is gained and the train enters
the tunnel, which has been bored through the summit and which was opened
for traffic in 1909. It here leaves Chile and issues on the Argentine
side amidst similar but less striking scenery. The line now runs beneath
a series of shelters for protection from snow; they are of corrugated
iron and provided with huge doors which can be closed in case of drift.
The difficulties which arise in winter from such causes are very great,
but at the time of our visit the snow was as a rule confined to
occasional white patches near the summit of the mountains: the great
peak of Aconcagua, 23,000 feet high, which was now to be seen seventeen
miles to the northward, was principally remarkable for standing out as a
huge white mass among its greyer fellows.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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