The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expeditionRoutledge, Katherine
History
The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expedition
Routledge, Katherine
Easter Island; Oceania -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
Inca Bridge is shortly reached, and here we left the train. It is
somewhat astonishing to find a large and fashionable hotel in these
surroundings; it is resorted to by the inhabitants of Buenos Aires when
in search of cooler air or desirous of partaking of the iron waters for
which the place is famous. We started at 8 o’clock next morning for the
return journey, which we made by riding with mules over the part of the
summit traversed by the tunnel, catching the train on the Chilean side.
It is a delightful and easy expedition, which can be thoroughly
recommended. The road runs at first parallel to the line, and when it
leaves the valley rises by gradual zigzags: our guide dispensed with all
corners by means of short cuts, but even so the ascent was not
strenuous. As we mounted higher and higher the corrugated iron railway
shelters looked like long, headless, grey caterpillars crawling along
the valley beneath. We had been warned to expect high wind, but it only
became unpleasant as we reached the actual summit, along which runs the
boundary between Chile and Argentina. The celebrated statue of the
Christ with uplifted hands blessing both countries, which commemorates
the arbitration treaty, stands on the main road a little to the east of
the track by which we crossed, which was, as usual, a short cut.
The descent fully justified the impression which we had formed from the
train of the superior grandeur of the Chilean side; it must be even more
impressive when more snow is visible. We regained the railway in plenty
of time to see the Argentine train issue from the tunnel at 2 o’clock:
the travellers had left Buenos Aires on the morning of the previous day,
traversed the great Argentine plains, and spent the night _en route_. If
the train is delayed and arrives at the summit too late to be conveyed
down before dark, the Chilean officials refuse to take it over, as the
descent would be too dangerous; the passengers under such circumstances
have to spend the night in their carriages or find such hotel
accommodation as is possible. They were indeed, as we saw then, a
cosmopolitan crowd; the languages of France, Germany and Spain, also
English, of both the European and American variety, were all being
spoken in the crowded carriage in which we found places. Our nearest
neighbours were two young couples from the United States, evidently
making the journey for the first time; as we began the descent through
the very finest part of the scenery, they produced packs of cards and
became engrossed in a game of auction bridge. This is one of the things
which must be seen to be believed, but we were subsequently told it was
by no means a unique instance. We arrived at Los Andes, hot and dusty
after our early start and long day, to find ourselves carried off to the
manager’s house and most kindly welcomed by Mrs. and Miss White to a
refreshing tea amid the delight of a cool veranda and beautiful garden.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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