The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expeditionRoutledge, Katherine
History
The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expedition
Routledge, Katherine
Easter Island; Oceania -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
About half a mile from these troglodyte abodes, and adjoining the coll,
is an extraordinarily fine specimen of an extinct crater or _caldero_.
Its walls are almost vertical and unclad by vegetation: about two-thirds
of the circumference is igneous rock, and the rest black volcanic ash,
which exhibits the stratification in the most marked manner. The crater
is about 1,000 feet deep, the floor is flat and dry, and the visitor
looks down on a house at the bottom and cultivated fields.
We returned to _Mana_ for a night or two, and then made an expedition by
motor along the north road, sleeping at the picturesque village of
Fergas, and from thence by mule over the beautiful mountain-track to
Santa Brigida. We changed animals _en route_, and the price asked for a
fresh beast was outrageous. We were prepared under the circumstances to
pay it, when the portly lady of the inn, who was obviously “a
character,” beckoned us mysteriously round a corner, and, though we had
scarcely two words of any language in common, gave us emphatically to
understand that we were on no account to be so swindled, she would see
we got another. This, however, was not accomplished for another hour,
with the result that the last part of the journey was traversed in total
darkness, and the lights of the hotel were very welcome.
_Mana_ being still in the hands of work-people, we made our next way by
the south road to the town of Telde, near which is a mountain known as
Montana de las Cuatro Puertas, where are a wonderful series of caves
connected with the Guanches. The road from Las Palmas skirts the
sea-coast for a large part of the way, being frequently cut into the
cliff-face and in one place passing through a tunnel: the town lies on
the lowland not far from the sea. We arrived late in the afternoon, and
endeavoured to make a bargain for rooms with the burly landlord of the
rather humble little inn. As difficulties supervened a man who spoke a
little English was called in to act as interpreter. He turned out to be
a vendor of ice-creams who had visited London, and to make the
acquaintance of the exponent of such a trade in his native surroundings
was naturally a most thrilling experience. He expressed a great desire
to return to that land of wealth, England, though his knowledge of our
language was so extremely limited he had obviously, when there,
associated principally with his own countrymen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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