The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expeditionRoutledge, Katherine
History
The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expedition
Routledge, Katherine
Easter Island; Oceania -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
Some of the residents have villas among the hills or by one of the
scarce oases. We made an excursion to one of these last resorts which is
a famed beauty-spot, and found it a narrow gulch between two mountains,
with a little stream and a few unhappy vegetables and woebegone trees.
It was difficult to imagine, while traversing the road along one
hillside after another, each covered with nothing but rocks and rubble,
on what the few animals subsisted; it was remarked that the milk could
not need sterilising, as the cows fed only on stones. The rains occur in
August, after which the hills are covered with a small green plant. We
were told that some of the valleys higher up are comparatively fruitful,
and certainly it is possible to obtain vegetables at a not unreasonable
price. The women who live in the hills carry back quite usually, after a
shopping expedition, loads of seventy to eighty pounds for a distance of
perhaps three miles, with a rise of 900 feet, making the whole journey
in two and a half hours.
The British Consul, Captain Taylor, R.N., has with much enterprise
established a body of Boy Scouts among the youthful inhabitants. An
attractive member of the corps, wearing a becoming and sensible uniform,
accompanied us as guide on two occasions, when we made excursions on the
island, giving the whole afternoon to us. He declined to accept any
remuneration, as it was against the principles of his order to be paid
for doing a good turn. Other youthful natives are less useful and more
grasping. One small imp, with a swarthy complexion and head like an
overgrown radish, became our constant follower. The acquaintance began
one day when S. was carrying a large biscuit-tin from the post office,
in which some goods had just arrived from England: he followed him down
the pier, beseeching, “Oh, Captain Biscuit-Tin, give me one penny.”
Every time after this, when S. went on shore for business or pleasure,
“Biscuit-Tin,” as we in our turn named the boy, was there awaiting him.
Once, in stepping out of the boat on to the rusty iron ladder of the
jetty, his toe almost caught on a small round head as it emerged from
the water uttering the cry, “Oh, Captain, where is that penny?” A crowd
had surrounded the landing-stage, so the boy had dived into the water as
the easiest way of approach. He expressed the desire to come with us to
Buenos Aires, undeterred by the information which S. gravely gave him
that “all the boys on board were beaten every day, with an extra beating
on Saturday.” The avocation which he proposed to fill was that of cook’s
boy, as he “would have much to eat.” He followed us for the whole of one
expedition, eventually obtaining “that penny” as we shoved off from the
pier for the last time, an hour before sailing. He clapped it into his
cheek, as a monkey does a nut, and held out his hand to me for another;
but I was already in the boat, and a coin was not forthcoming; so that
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