The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expeditionRoutledge, Katherine
History
The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expedition
Routledge, Katherine
Easter Island; Oceania -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
Having got our package from England, we finally quitted the friendly
harbour of Porto Grande on Thursday afternoon, May 29th, sailing forth
once more, this time to cross the Atlantic, with the little shiver and
thrill which it still gave some of us when we committed our bodies to
the deep for a long and lonely voyage, even with every hope of a
resurrection on the other side of the ocean. After we sighted St. Jago,
the capital of the Cape Verde group, on the following day, we saw no
trace of human life for thirteen days; so that if mischance occurred
there was nothing and no one to help in all the blue sea and sky. The
self-sufficiency needed by those who go down to the sea in ships is
almost appalling.
Instead of making direct for Pernambuco, we steered first of all due
south, carrying with us the north-east trade, in order to cross the
Doldrums to the best advantage, and catch the south-east trade as soon
as possible on the other side. The calm belt may be expected just north
of the Equator, but its position varies with climatic conditions, and it
was therefore a matter of excitement to know how long we should keep the
wind. In the opinion of our authorities it might leave us on Sunday and
could not be with us beyond Tuesday. The engineer, whose duty had so far
been light, had been chaffingly warned by the rest of the crew that his
turn would come in the tropics, when he would have to work below for
twenty-four hours on end.
On Sunday S. gave orders that the engine was to be started by day or
night, whenever the officer in command of the watch thought it
necessary; but still the north-east trade held good. On Monday all hands
were at work stowing the mainsail, for as soon as the calm came the
squalls were expected which are typical of that part of the world. On
Tuesday evening, when according to calculation we should have been out
of its zone, we were still travelling before the wind, and we began to
congratulate ourselves with trembling, that our passage would be more
rapid than we had ventured to hope. All Wednesday, however, the breeze
was very light, and we kept our finger on its pulse as on that of a sick
man. By Thursday it had faded and had died away, the sails hung slack,
the gear rattled noisily, the motor was run. The air was hot, damp, and
sticky, with heavy squalls, and the nights were trying. It is impossible
to sleep on the deck of a small sailing ship, with so many strings about
and someone always pulling at something, so we roamed from our berths to
cabin floors and saloon settees and back again, “seeking rest and
finding none.” The thermometer in the cabin never throughout the voyage
rose to more than eighty-three degrees, but, as is well known, it is
humidity and lack of air rather than the absolute height of temperature
which determine comfort. Friday afternoon increased air roused our
hopes; but, alas! it soon subsided, and during the night we again relied
on the engine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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