The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expeditionRoutledge, Katherine
History
The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expedition
Routledge, Katherine
Easter Island; Oceania -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
We had now before us a voyage of some 3,000 miles down the eastern coast
of South America before the Magellan Straits were reached. It was
marvellously impressive sailing day after day along the coast-line of a
great continent, although at the moment the said coast was sandy and
flat, the only diversity being occasional lights at night from some town
on the shore. Bahia de Todos os Santos, more generally known simply as
Bahia, was our next destination. Some fine Portuguese houses are said to
survive from the days when it was the old capital, and it may be
remembered as the locality where Robinson Crusoe was engaged in planting
tobacco, when he was induced to go on the slave-raiding voyage which led
to his best-known adventure. The bay, which runs north and south,
extends for twenty-five miles, and the situation of the town on its east
side is distinctly fine; part of it has been built on the shore, and
part on the top of rising ground immediately above it. The funicular
railway which connects the one with the other is to be seen from the
sea.
[Illustration:
FIG. 6.
BAHIA DE TODOS OS SANTOS.
]
This unfortunately is all that circumstances allow us to record. The
anchor was dropped at midday, Wednesday, June 25th, and orders given for
luncheon to be served at once, so that we might go on shore as soon as
we had got our pratique. The health officer, when he came on board, was
found to speak nothing but Portuguese, which made communication
difficult; the same had been the case with the pilot at Pernambuco; and
as half the vessels visiting those ports are English it might perhaps be
suggested, without insular pride, that a smattering of that language, or
at least of French, might be desirable in such officials. We produced
the bill of health from Pernambuco in ordinary course: this, however,
did not satisfy the doctor. He asked for that from St. Vincent, then
from Las Palmas, and finally from Falmouth, though we pointed out that,
as this had been granted three months ago, it scarcely had a practical
bearing on the case: the virgin health of Bahia must, we felt, indeed be
immaculate to require such protection. Finally the bill was stamped and
passed. Then the officer handed in a marvellous paper of directions
given in English, which stated that “if the captain went on shore all
boats’ crews were to return immediately to the ship; that no one was to
be on shore after 7 p.m.; no fruit was to be bought from hucksters, and
none was to be eaten till it had been in a cool place for three days.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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