The Naples RivieraVaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Philosophy
The Naples Riviera
Vaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Italy -- Description and travel; Naples, Bay of (Italy)
We ourselves were especially fortunate on the occasion of our last visit
to Poseidonia on a mild day in December, a month which on the Lucanian
shore somewhat resembles a northern October. A soft luminous haze hung
over the landscape and over the Bay of Salerno itself, rendering the
classic mountains at once indistinct in outline and unnaturally lofty to
the eye. More grandiose and mysterious than under the fierce light of a
sunny noontide appeared that day the three giant pillared forms, as we
entered the precincts of the ruined city by the Siren’s Gate, and made our
way through the thick herbage still pearled with dew, since there was
neither sunshine nor sirocco to dry “the tears of mournful Eve” off the
clumps of silver-glinted acanthus, or the tall grasses bending with the
moisture. In the warm humid air we seated ourselves on the plinth of a
column, and gazing around allowed the influence of this marvellous spot to
sink deep into the soul. No tourists with unseemly or unnecessary chatter
arrived that day to share our selfish delight or to break the
all-pervading spell of solitude; all lay peaceful and deserted. All was
silent too save for the low monotonous sobbing of the sea on the unseen
beach near at hand, the historic beach on which at various times
throughout the roll of past ages Doric colonists, Epirot warriors, Roman
legionaries and fierce Mohammedan pirates had disembarked, all with the
same object:—to seize the proud city that had now for the last thousand
years lain uninhabited, save for the owls and the bats. It was too cloudy
a day for sun-loving creatures such as lizards or serpents to emerge and
rustle amongst the broken stones and leaves, over all of which during the
silent hours of the past night Arachne had been employed in weaving her
softest and whitest textures, that the windless morning had allowed to
remain intact. The only sign of animate life was visible in a pair of
lively gold-finches, which with merry notes were fluttering from thistle
to thistle, picking the down from each ripened flower-head and prodigally
scattering the seeds upon the weed-grown soil where once had bloomed the
odorous Roses of Paestum that the poets loved.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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