The Naples RivieraVaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Philosophy
The Naples Riviera
Vaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Italy -- Description and travel; Naples, Bay of (Italy)
The last days of Vittoria, which were chiefly spent within the walls of
the Convent of Sant’ Anna at Rome, were clouded by ill-health and sorrow.
The death of the young Marchese del Vasto, “her moral and intellectual
son,” was an irreparable loss, for which her boundless fame and popularity
could offer little real consolation. At length the poetess, feeling death
approaching, moved to the house of Giulia Colonna, her relative, and there
expired in February 1547, in the fifty-seventh year of her age. To the
last her death-bed was surrounded by sorrowing and adoring friends,
amongst them being Michelangelo, who is said to have witnessed with his
own eyes the last moments of his beloved Lady. And the famous sculptor,
painter and poet—perhaps the most stupendous genius the world has yet
produced—is reported to have bitterly regretted in after years that on so
solemn an occasion he had not ventured to imprint one chaste kiss upon the
forehead of the woman he had adored so ardently, yet so purely during
life. By her expressed wish the body of the poetess was buried in San
Domenico Maggiore at Naples, the finest and least spoiled of all the
Neapolitan churches, where a velvet-covered coffin containing the ashes of
the Divine Vittoria and her “Bel Sole,” and surmounted by the sword,
banner and portrait of Fernando d’Avalos, is still pointed out to the
stranger, resting on a shelf in the sacristy of the church. We cannot but
regret that Vittoria’s body did not find a final resting-place in her
_superbo scoglio_, where all her happiest years were spent and where her
memory still survives so fresh.
Sadly deserted appear to-day the historic buildings, which are fast
falling into hopeless decay; even the large domed church of the Castle has
been desecrated and turned into a stable.
“Tocsins from yon bleak turrets never ring;
No knight or pages pace those galleries,
So sombre and so silent: ever cling
To that cold church and palace draperies
Of glaucous fume-weed; sea-birds ever sing
The vanished glories with low mournful cries.”
Ischia itself is a quaint, dirty, straggling town, possessing a small
cathedral of ancient foundation, but modernised within and without, its
sole object of interest being a curious font resting on marble lions. The
charm of the city lies chiefly in the busy scenes to be witnessed daily on
its sandy beach and on the stone causeway that leads to the Castle, where
a large part of the population seems to spend most of its time in mending
the deep brown fishing nets or in attending to the gaudily painted boats.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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