The Naples RivieraVaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Philosophy
The Naples Riviera
Vaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Italy -- Description and travel; Naples, Bay of (Italy)
Almost adjoining the outskirts of the little capital of the island is
Porto d’Ischia, with a deep circular harbour that was once the crater of
an extinct volcano, wherein every variety of Mediterranean fishing craft
is to be seen at anchor. Close to the port, embowered among groves of
orange and lemon trees that in winter time are laden with bright or pale
yellow fruit, stands a fine old villa of the Bourbon kings of Naples, once
a favourite summer retreat of his Majesty King Bomba. Royalty has long
abandoned Ischia, and the villa has now been converted into a bath house.
Beyond its neglected park stretches an extensive pine forest, carpeted in
spring time with daisies, marigolds and anemones, and even in February gay
with yellow oxalis and redolent with the scent of hidden violets.
The road from Ischia to Casamicciola, a distance of four miles, leads
along the base of Monte Epomeo through olive groves and vineyards, the
whitewashed walls of the domed cottages, the flat roofs and cisterns, and
the frequent clumps of aloe or prickly pear giving an Eastern aspect to
the scenery, though the sharp tinklings of the goat bells among the
thickets of white heath and dark myrtle scrub on the hill-sides and the
continual murmur of the waves breaking on the rocks below, serve to remind
us we are upon the Neapolitan Riviera. Our destination at length is
reached, the roadway crossing the deep valley of the Gurgitello with its
sulphur baths, which once had a wide reputation and are still much
frequented in the summer months by the people of Naples. Although the
sources of the springs were certainly damaged by the earthquake of 1883,
new bathing establishments have been built, and a fair number of patients
are once more availing themselves of these beneficent waters, which of
course are warranted to heal every bodily evil under the sun. A course of
the Ischian waters therefore applied externally and internally (so the
local doctors inform us)
“Muove i paralitici,
Spedisce gli apopletici,
Gli asmatici, gli asfitici,
Gl’ isterici, i diabetici
Guarisce timpanitidi,
E scrofule e rachitidi.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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