The Naples RivieraVaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Philosophy
The Naples Riviera
Vaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Italy -- Description and travel; Naples, Bay of (Italy)
Like the great volcano of Etna, which the Ischian mountain somewhat
resembles on a tiny scale. Epomeo contains three distinct climatic zones.
The lowest is that of the coast line with its rich sub-tropical
vegetation, the early part of the ascent leading by steep stony paths
through sun-baked vineyards which produce the white wine of Ischia,
wholesome and light but somewhat acid in taste. For the storing of this
vintage the peasants make use of the numerous old stone towers, that once
served as safe retreats for the terrified inhabitants in times when the
Barbary pirates frequently descended on the Italian coasts to plunder and
enslave. Very curious it is to step out of the blinding sunlight into the
interior of one of these medieval buildings, where in the icy gloom stand
great barrels of the new white wine, each carefully inscribed with a
prayer in praise of St Restituta, from one of which the swarthy
_contadino_, in expectation of a few pence, draws a glassful of the sour
chilly liquid to offer his visitor. Leaving behind this region of houses
and of cultivation, the zone of forest is reached, covered with woods of
chestnut and oak, with a thick undergrowth of heather, myrtle, laurustinus
and sweet-scented yellow coronella; there is grass under our feet, and
long-stemmed daisies, violets, mauve anemones and small fragrant marigolds
everywhere. Through the trees comes the nasal but not unmelodious singing
of an unseen charcoal-burner, or the plaintive note of the little
goat-herd’s rustic pipe, accompanied by the musical jingling of his
goat-bells;—for a moment we try to fancy ourselves in the pastoral Italy
of Theocritus, where nymphs and shepherds, peasants and dryads, lived
together on terms of amity in the woods. But soon the chestnut trees
appear stunted, and the groves become less thick, and we finally gain the
last zone, the desolate expanse of naked rock and dark lava deposits of
the summit, where only a few hardy weeds can thrive. Here in some damp
mouldy chambers dwells a hermit, for nearly all the classic mountains of
Southern Italy are tenanted by an anchorite, generally an old and
ignorant, but pious peasant, of the type of Pietro Murrone, the holy
recluse of the Abruzzi, who was finally dragged from his cell to be
invested forcibly with the pontifical robes and tiara as Celestine the
Fifth. The present hermitage on Mont’ Epomeo dates however from
comparatively modern times, for its first occupant is said to have been a
German nobleman, a certain Joseph Arguth, governor of Ischia under the
first Bourbon king, who in consequence of a solemn vow made in battle
deliberately passed his last years of existence on the topmost peak of the
island he had lately ruled. His example has been followed and his cell
filled by many successors, who have endured the spring rains, the summer
heats, the autumn storms and the winter chills upon this airy height,
where the glorious view may be found a compensation for eternal
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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