The Naples RivieraVaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Philosophy
The Naples Riviera
Vaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Italy -- Description and travel; Naples, Bay of (Italy)
Conceive, then, in front of us, instead of this long bare stretch flanked
by broken walls and strewn with shapeless fragments of brick and stone, an
immense double arcade, two stories in height, affording ample protection
against sun or rain and enclosing an oblong pavement whereon are set
numerous statues of emperors or private citizens, occupying lofty
positions of honour above the heads of the surging throng below. Imagine
that group of shattered pillars, which obstructs our full view of the
distant cone of Vesuvius, transformed into an imposing temple, covered
with polychrome decoration, not in the best of taste according to our
modern ideas of art, but gorgeous and cheerful in the clear atmosphere of
the south. Rebuild, in the mind’s eye, the Basilica and the temple of
Apollo on the left, and straight before us, as we look forward from our
coign of vantage at the narrow southern end of the colonnade, let us plant
the three dominant statues of Augustus, Claudius and Agrippina to form our
foreground. If we can construct by stress of fancy some such setting of
classical architecture, gay with primary colours and gilding and graceful
in design, it is easier to people the Pompeian Forum with the masses of
humanity that once mingled here. For we have the knowledge of modern
Italian life to guide us to a certain extent; we have seen the swarms of
citizens who to-day fill the main piazzas of the towns, especially those
of the provincial type, where the morning market is held and the chief
cafés and shops are situated. But if the general use of the piazza is
characteristic of the modern second-class Italian city, this concentration
of life was far more marked in the ancient Roman town, wherein the Forum
must have appeared as the very heart of the whole body social and politic.
Roman city life indeed displayed two strongly antagonistic phases:—the
utmost privacy in the home, the most public exhibition in the Forum, where
every trade and form of business were carried on in the open air, and
whither pursuit of gain, or pleasure, or religious duty led all the
citizens to direct their steps. For, as we have already shown, almost all
the public life of the place was concentrated within this space and its
surroundings; temples, markets, shops, law courts, municipal offices, all
abutted on the Forum; it was not merely the chief, but the only place that
drew together the daily crowd, bent alike on business or amusement. No
chariots were permitted to cross the area sacred to the claims of
money-making, of gossip, and of worship; so that we must picture to
ourselves a great mass of people undisturbed by the passing of vehicles,
or by the shouts and whip-crackings of the noisy charioteers—was ever such
a thing as a quiet Italian coachman, ancient or modern, we digress to
wonder! All was orderly and decorous when compared with the quarrelling,
screaming groups of citizens that block the congested streets of modern
Naples.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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