The narrative of a journey undertaken in the years 1819, 1820 and 1821 through France, Italy, Savoy, Switzerland, parts of Germany bordering on the Rhine, Holland and the Netherlands : $b comprising incidents that occurred to the author, who has long suffered under a total deprivation of sight; with various points of information collected on his tourHolman, James
History
The narrative of a journey undertaken in the years 1819, 1820 and 1821 through France, Italy, Savoy, Switzerland, parts of Germany bordering on the Rhine, Holland and the Netherlands : $b comprising incidents that occurred to the author, who has long suffered under a total deprivation of sight; with various points of information collected on his tour
Holman, James
Europe -- Description and travel
Berne is built with much regularity and some magnificence; the houses
are chiefly of white free-stone, and uniform in their height and
appearance; in the principal streets, piazzas are erected on each side,
over foot-paths elevated some height above the carriage road, through
the centre of which, runs a small and rapid stream led off from the Aar,
which gives a refreshing coolness to this part of the town, and, at the
same time, promotes its cleanliness.
The public buildings are particularly fine, especially the cathedral,
churches, and the arsenal.
My friend was much amused with the costume of the Bernoise females, and
in particular the peasantry from the country, who came to supply the
markets; their head-dress was very peculiar, and they wore curious
black cloth petticoats, so short as not to reach the knee, with white
stockings. The ladies and towns-women, however, have adopted the greater
length of petticoat.
On Wednesday, the 1st of August, we set off in a carriage, termed a
berlin, for Basle, distant eighteen leagues, paying as many francs each
for our places, and in company with a French gentleman, and a Bernoise
woman, in the dress of her canton. We arrived at Soleure for dinner,
which is an agreeable little town on the banks of the Aar; the houses are
particularly neat and clean, and at the same time built with considerable
taste. We visited the catholic cathedral, which is a remarkably neat
modern structure.
The country between Soleure and Basle is very hilly, and regarded as
beautiful beyond description. We slept at a village five leagues from
Basle, at which place we arrived about noon on the following day.
We took up our residence at the Three Kings, situated on the banks of the
Rhine, over which majestic river, the windows of our apartment projected.
This town, except in point of situation, is very inferior to Berne.
After dinner, we crossed the river by a wooden bridge to Little Basle,
with a view of inquiring into the possibility of getting down the Rhine
by boat; for we found there were no passage boats, as we had been led to
expect. We were informed that a boat was loading, which would probably
set off in a day or two days’ time; but, upon consideration, were induced
to prefer accompanying the French gentleman with whom we had travelled
from Berne, and who was proceeding by diligence on the following morning.
We remarked a custom peculiar to this place, which, however, has, I
believe, been noticed by several travellers, that of keeping the clock
one hour in advance of the regular time. The following explanation of the
origin of this custom has been given. The magistrates having received
information of a plan to make a sudden attack on the city at one o’clock
on the morning, ordered the town-clock to be put forward an hour. The
enemy, hearing it strike two, considered that their design had been
discovered, and abandoned the attempt. In commemoration of the event, it
has ever since been kept an hour in advance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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