The narrative of a journey undertaken in the years 1819, 1820 and 1821 through France, Italy, Savoy, Switzerland, parts of Germany bordering on the Rhine, Holland and the Netherlands : $b comprising incidents that occurred to the author, who has long suffered under a total deprivation of sight; with various points of information collected on his tourHolman, James
History
The narrative of a journey undertaken in the years 1819, 1820 and 1821 through France, Italy, Savoy, Switzerland, parts of Germany bordering on the Rhine, Holland and the Netherlands : $b comprising incidents that occurred to the author, who has long suffered under a total deprivation of sight; with various points of information collected on his tour
Holman, James
Europe -- Description and travel
I congratulated myself on having arrived safely at this universally
admired city, and had the additional pleasure of finding the hotel, to
which I had been recommended, exceedingly comfortable; the establishment
was excellent, and the charges, at the same time, reasonable; every thing
was conducted upon a fixed system, the prices for rooms and meals being
undeviating; nor did they charge for any thing which was not actually
partaken of. The rates were as follows:—breakfast, a paul and a half
(the paul being little more than five pence sterling); there was a table
d’hôte at two o’clock, chiefly frequented by merchants of all nations;
and another at five, for the accommodation of those who were travelling
for amusement, comprising amongst other articles a good substantial
English dinner; for each of which, with a good bottle of wine, the charge
was five pauls, somewhat less than half-a-crown sterling; and the bedroom
was charged three pauls per night.
The table d’hôte was nearly over when I arrived, but I contrived to
make a good dinner from the remains of a roasted turkey, during which I
recognised the voice of the Saxony merchant entering the house, and of
whom I had gained ground half an hour; but he did not come near me, for
the two or three days that he remained at this hotel.
I was not disposed to consider my present visit to this city, more than
_en passant_ on my way to Rome, intending to take it more at leisure on
my return; my present observations are therefore to be regarded as very
casual ones.
Madame H⸺ had the kindness to procure me a servant, but it was not easy
to gain much information from him, as he was an Italian, and not in the
least acquainted with the French language; however by his naming, as he
had been ordered, each street and public building, as we passed along,
I soon began to acquire a general idea of the town, and contrived to go
wherever I wished, so as to call upon my friends and explore most parts
of the city; the weather, however, was unfavourable, and, notwithstanding
the advanced state of the spring, both cold and wet, so that for the nine
days I staid at Florence, we were only one day exempt from rain more or
less: as compared with Nice, it might be considered an English climate.
The cathedral is a beautiful edifice, paved with fine marble, as is also
the Duke’s chapel, which is said to contain some exquisite paintings
over the altar. On Sunday I was present at the ceremonies of this chapel,
where I heard some fine vocal and instrumental music; after which I
proceeded to attend divine service at the house of our ambassador, which
is opened for that purpose to English residents and visitors: and I could
not avoid contrasting its devout and simple solemnity, with the pompous
ritual of the Roman church.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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