The narrative of a journey undertaken in the years 1819, 1820 and 1821 through France, Italy, Savoy, Switzerland, parts of Germany bordering on the Rhine, Holland and the Netherlands : $b comprising incidents that occurred to the author, who has long suffered under a total deprivation of sight; with various points of information collected on his tourHolman, James
History
The narrative of a journey undertaken in the years 1819, 1820 and 1821 through France, Italy, Savoy, Switzerland, parts of Germany bordering on the Rhine, Holland and the Netherlands : $b comprising incidents that occurred to the author, who has long suffered under a total deprivation of sight; with various points of information collected on his tour
Holman, James
Europe -- Description and travel
On the 27th of March, I left Florence for Rome, by way of Sienna, in
company with an English gentleman, Mr. W. S⸺, and two Italians. It rained
very hard, and the roads were consequently heavy, but our coach was large
and comfortable; the horses were indifferent ones, and I observed one
of our Italian companions express his dissatisfaction, on finding that
we were not to be carried forward by mules, which are more capable of
undergoing fatigue, and, I believe, in this country, twice as valuable as
horses. We did not halt for breakfast until two o’clock in the afternoon,
and as I had taken nothing before leaving Florence, I was really so
unwell about twelve o’clock, that I entreated the driver to allow me to
partake of a piece of bread, which I heard him eating, but he told me he
had just finished it; I felt however sufficiently revived after a hearty
breakfast of mutton-chops, coffee, &c. to be able to walk a few miles,
which we could do at times, as the weather in the afternoon cleared up.
One of our Italian companions was a Roman, and professed himself attached
to mineralogy, and a great traveller, having been amongst the Turks,
Greeks, Egyptians, Persians, and also over the greater part of Europe:
he had, however, yet to visit England, from which he promised himself
great gratification. The plain English of this probably was, that he was
an itinerant dealer in precious stones. Towards evening the rain came on
again, and we had a very heavy journey to Sienna, which we did not reach
until after nine o’clock, when we made a hearty supper, and retired to
bed.
Sienna is described as a pleasant summer residence, but it must from
its vicinity to the Apennines be very wet and cold in winter. There
are several good public as well as private buildings; the streets are
tolerably handsome, but many of them exceedingly steep. The inhabitants
are stated to be hospitable and polished, and to speak the purest Italian
of any modern state. There are said to be many English residents. The
present pope Pius VII. is a native of this place. The cathedral is
magnificent, and particularly famous for its pavement of white marble,
inlaid with Scripture pieces of grey marble, amongst which is Abraham’s
intended sacrifice of his son Isaac. Another piece, representing Moses
striking the Rock, is also greatly admired: the whole, indeed, are of
exquisite workmanship, which it took ages to complete. But as I can give
little other personal account of this place, than what I might derive
from my _dreams_, having passed nearly the whole of the short time I
continued here in bed, I shall say no more respecting it. At six in the
morning we recommenced our journey, notwithstanding which early hour, our
good and pious coachman had been to mass to pray for a safe journey.
We breakfasted at Buono Convento, where the Emperor Henry VII. was
poisoned by a monk with the sacramental wafer, in the year 1314.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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