The narrative of a journey undertaken in the years 1819, 1820 and 1821 through France, Italy, Savoy, Switzerland, parts of Germany bordering on the Rhine, Holland and the Netherlands : $b comprising incidents that occurred to the author, who has long suffered under a total deprivation of sight; with various points of information collected on his tourHolman, James
History
The narrative of a journey undertaken in the years 1819, 1820 and 1821 through France, Italy, Savoy, Switzerland, parts of Germany bordering on the Rhine, Holland and the Netherlands : $b comprising incidents that occurred to the author, who has long suffered under a total deprivation of sight; with various points of information collected on his tour
Holman, James
Europe -- Description and travel
Tuesday was also a rainy day, and I did not attend the ceremonies of
the Roman church. To-day a select party of friends dined at Francis’s
hotel, and amongst the rest a young American physician, Dr. G⸺, who had
been a companion of my friend Mr. C⸺ and his son, in a felucca voyage
from Naples, and for the last three weeks had been laid up in the house
with a fever, taken from exposure on their journey to the Malaria, or
exhalations arising from the marshy grounds about the mouth of the
Tiber, where they were detained two days, by the necessity of obtaining
permission from Cardinal Gonsalvi to land. The vessel they had engaged,
had previously been employed in the charcoal trade, and the gentlemen
having ordered a quantity of clean straw to be placed in the hold as a
more commodious birth, the consequence was, that the coal dust, from the
motion of the vessel, worked up into the straw from the chinks between
the boards, so that in the morning, when they turned out, they were
astonished to find they were become as dirty and swarthy as Neapolitan
sailors themselves.
There are three _misereres_ performed in Passion week: the first was sung
on Wednesday; the second on Thursday, and the last on Good Friday; all of
which I attended. To describe as they merit, these exquisite pieces of
vocal music, requires a power which I do not possess; they must be heard
to be comprehended; it appears to me beyond the reach of art, to bring an
assemblage of human voices to the perfection which was here attained; and
to produce such modulations of heavenly harmony: had I not been assured
to the contrary, I could not have believed but they must have been
assisted by the finest-toned instruments:—
“Can any mortal mixture of earth’s mould
Breathe such divine enchanting ravishment?”
Much as I had heard of the rapturous effect; it far exceeded any
expectation I had formed; notwithstanding, it is unusual to find
the objects of extravagant eulogy, afford a real, or proportionate,
gratification.
“⸺such a sacred and home-felt delight
Such sober certainty of waking bliss,
I never heard till now⸺”
On Good Friday, after the last miserere, we went to St. Peter’s, where
a most brilliantly illuminated cross was suspended; we did not however,
continue there long, being almost satiated with these raree-shows. I then
had the pleasure of spending a quiet evening with my friends Mr. and Mrs.
H⸺, to whose interest I had been indebted for securing my places at each
of the misereres, as well as for many other kind attentions during my
stay in Rome.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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