The narrative of a journey undertaken in the years 1819, 1820 and 1821 through France, Italy, Savoy, Switzerland, parts of Germany bordering on the Rhine, Holland and the Netherlands : $b comprising incidents that occurred to the author, who has long suffered under a total deprivation of sight; with various points of information collected on his tourHolman, James
History
The narrative of a journey undertaken in the years 1819, 1820 and 1821 through France, Italy, Savoy, Switzerland, parts of Germany bordering on the Rhine, Holland and the Netherlands : $b comprising incidents that occurred to the author, who has long suffered under a total deprivation of sight; with various points of information collected on his tour
Holman, James
Europe -- Description and travel
Easter Sunday at length arrived, which in every respect, and particularly
in point of pageantry, is the greatest festival observed by the Roman
church throughout the year. The two first grand ceremonies of the
procession, and the pope’s benediction, I did not attend. I was present,
however, at the illumination of St. Peter’s, and the exhibition
of fire-works at the castle of St. Angelo; but, alas! denied the
gratification of seeing the brilliant spectacles. I cannot, however,
resist the inclination to transcribe the following animated description
of these enchanting scenes, as well as the preceding ceremonies,
extracted from a late publication, entitled “Rome in the Nineteenth
Century.”
“On this day the church puts forth all her pomp and splendour. The
pope assists at high mass, and there is a procession, which, seen to
the highest advantage in that noble church, is as grand as any such
procession can be. A pen was erected for the ladies on the left of the
high altar, for wherever the pope comes, they are always cooped up for
fear of accidents. Luckily, however, it was unprovided with a grate,
so they could see more to perfection. It was, in all respects, a happy
liberation from the gloomy imprisonment they had been sustaining, day
after day, behind the grate, in the sistine chapel. The sable robes that
they wore during the last week, were now universally thrown aside, and
the gayer—the more catholicly orthodox—were they.
“The church was lined with the Guarda Nobili, in their splendid uniforms
of gold and scarlet, and nodding plumes of white ostrich feathers; and
the Swiss guards, with their polished cuirasses and steel helmets. The
great centre aisle was kept clear by a double wall of armed men, for
the grand procession, the approach of which, after much expectation,
was proclaimed by the sound of a trumpet, from the farther end of the
church. A long band of priests advanced, loaded with still augmenting
magnificence, as they ascended to the higher orders. Cloth of gold and
embroidery of gold and silver, and crimson velvet, and mantles of spotted
ermine, and flowing trains, and attendant train-bearers, and mitres,
and crucifixes glittering with jewels, and priests, and patriarchs, and
bishops, and cardinals, dazzled our astonished eyes, and filled the long
length of St. Peter’s. Lastly came the pope in his crimson chair of
state, borne on the shoulders of twenty Palefrenieri, arrayed in robes of
white, and wearing the tiara, or triple crown of the conjoined Trinity,
with a canopy of cloth of silver, floating over his head, and preceded
by two men, carrying enormous fans, composed of large plumes of ostrich
feathers, mounted on long gilded wands. He stopped to pay his adorations
to the miraculous Madonna, in her chapel, about half way up; and this
duty, which he never omits, being performed, he was slowly borne past
the high altar, liberally giving his benediction with the twirl of his
fingers as he passed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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