It was not a little interesting to contrast these religious spectacles of modern, with the gigantic and martial amusements of ancient Rome; nor is it possible to receive otherwise than a melancholy impression, of the comparative littleness of the former, as well as the mistaken policy, which has perverted the pure simplicity of a religion, primitively plain and unadorned as that of Christianity, into the ground-work, and vehicle, of affected ceremonial and gorgeous pageantry, for the purpose of enslaving the human mind. Nor, after all, does any part of this imposing scene strongly affect the imagination, so as to realize the ideal expectation of its participators, except indeed the all powerful and sublime misereres; the illumination of St. Peter’s; and the fireworks of St. Angelo. These, indeed, work upon the mind with magic charms, and transport it into a fairy world, beyond the limits of mortality. I had a great desire to ascend to the summit of St. Peter’s, notwithstanding a prohibition had lately been issued against persons going up to the cross, on account, it was said, of a young English midshipman having ascended late one evening, and attached privately to it an union Jack, which he had carried in his pocket; so that next morning the British flag was seen flying over the once mighty city of Rome. I should rather however imagine, that the prohibition arose from fear of accidents. On leaving the church, we ascended a broad staircase formed of stone steps, so easy of ascent, that you might have rode up or down with perfect safety, which led to the upper part of the body of the church, whence its dome springs, and where you are astonished by the vast extent of the roof, with ranges of small houses and workshops upon it. Stone seats are also placed for the accommodation of visitors, from whence may be seen the cupolas of the side chapels, which are invisible from below. I determined, however, to proceed into the ball, which every one is permitted to do. From this point we ascended the wonderful, and stupendous dome, by a succession of staircases, each terminating in a gallery, from whence a noble view of the city and surrounding country is to be seen. The staircases gradually decreased as we ascended, until, at length, they became so contracted, as scarcely to be capable of admitting a man of more than ordinary size, and who, if he did succeed in reaching the copper ladder which leads immediately into the ball, must have then disencumbered himself of his dress, to have made good his entry into that place. On arriving within the ball, we found it capacious enough to contain several persons, and were told that no less than from sixteen to twenty had been within it at the same time; but they must have been of the same quality with Pharaoh’s lean kine; or, as I have heard Scotchmen express it, “a heap of fellows.”