Our ill-luck was that we travelled in one of the driest years known; and Omanbondè, which is a reach of the broad Omoramba, of some nine miles long, bears every mark of having been full of water. The course of the Omoramba, as I found out long afterwards, is towards the great river of the Mationa country, and up it during the rainy season hippopotami travel; many have been killed at Omanbondè; one a few years back actually travelled up to Okaroschekè, and thence his spoor led into the Swakop, that is not more than a couple of miles apart from it. He died in the Swakop, and his carcase was washed down and eaten by the Ghou Damup at Tsobis. Many Hottentots who were familiar with hippopotami, from having been born on the Orange River, which used to abound with them, saw fragments of the animal; Jonker told me the story and I have no reason to disbelieve it, but from the appearance of Damara-land during the dry season, one would as soon expect a hippopotamus to have travelled across the great Sahara as from Omanbondè to Tsobis. There is not a drop of water, except in wells, (which the beast could not get at,) between Omanbondè and the little fountain two hours from Schmelen’s Hope. We encamped by the side of Omanbondè near some wells of excellent water, to which hundreds of desert partridges flew every night. My men had had enough of travelling, and wanted to return; however I had my own way with them. I made them what presents I could. Their shirts were torn to rags, and I served out all the calico which I had taken as an article of exchange to make them new ones. I gave an assegai to each of my Damaras, and did my best to put the men into good humour, and then made ready to go on to the Ovampo. CHAPTER VI. Mistake a Lion for an Antelope.—Explore a Road.—Reach Palms.—Return and bring the Waggons.—Experiences of African Travel.—Guide decamps and we find another.—Settle at Okambuti.—The first Elephant.—Waggon breaks down.—Make a Strong Camp.—Chapupa’s History.—Savages _versus_ Europeans.—Ride on to the Ovampo.—Method of searching for Water.—Damaras are bad Guides.—Find some Bushmen.—We start, but are ordered back.—The Ovampo Caravan.—Chikorongo-onkompè.—Pronunciation of the letter L.—Salt, not a Necessary of Life.—Damaras never eat it.—Return to Chapupa’s Werft.—Arrange a Present for Nangoro.—Dressed and tanned Leather.—Hear of Kahikenè’s Death.—Damara Creed.—Eandas and Omakuru.—Ceremonies.—Huts and Finery.—Chaunts and Music.—Damara Language.—Prefixes. Thus closed an era in the journey; the first great point was reached, the furthest that the Hottentots from Namaqua-land had ever seen—for they had travelled as far as Omanbondè in one great expedition; they went in great numbers and returned in some distress after a few months’ absence. Curiously enough I arrived at Omanbondè the day year that I had left England.