The narrative of an explorer in tropical South AfricaGalton, Francis
History
The narrative of an explorer in tropical South Africa
Galton, Francis
South Africa -- Description and travel
_April 3rd._—Six hours took us to another werft. After the first two
hours we left our old friend, the Vley River, as we called it; and the
bushes being more open, and fewer thorn-trees among them, we followed
our guide across country. The captain of this werft was a very shrewd
fellow, and a jolly, humorous sort of man. He was convinced that we were
Hottentot spies; but for all that, we became great friends. At about
the point where we now were Omuvereoom was identified with the plain.
There were no thorns at all about here, but the country was covered with
high green-leaved bushes; the wood was very brittle, so that the waggon
crashed through trees whose stem was as thick as a man’s thigh, and we
had not to use the axes. Indeed, we have very seldom had occasion to
employ them, considering the country that we have pushed through. The
captain told us all sorts of tales about the Ovampo and their king,
Nangoro. He had visited them two or three times. Nangoro, he said, was
the fattest man in the world, and larger than either of my waggons. His
size has made a great impression upon the sparely-built Damaras, for
whenever I talk about him they allude to it. Every man I have talked to
about the Ovampo speaks well of them.
_April 4th._—We started in company with our tall guide, travelling three
and a half hours—slept without water. The next day we were to reach
our goal. Infinite were the conjectures on the size and appearance of
Omanbondè. We had looked over my mackintosh boat to see that it was in
good order, and agreed to settle on its banks and have a fortnight or
three weeks pleasant shooting in return for all the trouble and annoyance
that we had undergone. We tried not to expect very much of a lake for
fear of disappointment, but agreed that it could not be less than fifteen
miles by eight. Five hours’ travelling over undulating ground brought
us on the brow of a hill, below which lay a broad grassy river-bed 500
yards across—this was the Omoramba; up it was a projecting rock, and
round that Omanbondè. On a hill-top in front was a cluster of camelthorn
trees, (Omanbondè means camelthorn trees,) and below that the lake was
said to lie. Forwards we went with our nerves strung to the highest pitch
of excitement; we rattled the waggon on as fast as we could walk, turned
the corner, but another provoking reach of the river-bed was before us.
Then we plunged through a field of dry reeds, and were walking on, when
the guide loitered behind and seemed to be looking about for something.
The truth slowly dawned upon our minds that we were _then_ in Omanbondè,
and that the guide was actually looking for the water. It was really too
ridiculous that our magnificent lake should be reduced to this. However
there proved to be perfect truth in the story of the hippopotami. The
fact is, that a country like Damara-land is as different after a heavy
rainy season to what it is after a dry one, as the sea-beach is at
different times of the tide.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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