The narrative of an explorer in tropical South AfricaGalton, Francis
History
The narrative of an explorer in tropical South Africa
Galton, Francis
South Africa -- Description and travel
Matters now looked more sunshiny. There were nearly 100 oxen in my kraal,
and 60 or 70 sheep. My waggon-driver, who had stolen and who latterly had
been insolent, I paid in articles of exchange and dismissed. Gabriel, at
his own wish was left behind. A dozen Damaras agreed to go with us up
the country, and Kahikenè, our friend, lay in our way. Hans and I rode
short exploring excursions to find a road by which we could take the
waggon out of the bed of the Swakop, and found one with great difficulty.
Andersson then rode a wider sweep to see whether the country away from
the Swakop looked open enough for a waggon. He went over a great deal of
country, and returned with favourable news in five days, but he hardly
saw a Damara, the land was so thinly peopled. We then made ready for our
start, though the five mules had run quite away; they were traced through
Barmen and Otjimbinguè to Tsobis, a distance of more than 100 miles,
and there the chase was given up. I may as well anticipate my story and
mention that they, or rather three of them, arrived at Scheppmansdorf;
they had crossed the Naanip plain by instinct. The whole distance these
runaways had travelled by themselves, viz., that from Schmelen’s Hope to
Scheppmansdorf, is eighty-five hours’ travel very nearly, which at the
rate of two and a half miles per hour gives 212 miles.
A few incidents occurred at Schmelen’s Hope; first a plague of
caterpillars that covered the ground, then a swarm, but not an utterly
destructive one, of locusts, and, lastly, a flight of migratory storks,
who made great war upon the locusts. We were perpetually teased by some
hyenas—they came most impudently in amongst us as their peculiar spoors
showed (the hind and fore feet being of unequal size), but we never could
catch them; at last the dogs overtook one on a bright moonlight night and
held him at bay. I was asleep and was quite undressed when their sharp
barks awoke me, and I had only time to put on my shoes. The dogs and
hyena were on the other side of the Swakop, which here is exceedingly
broad, about 300 yards, and by the time we had floundered through the
sand to the other side the animal had retreated among the rocks and
hakis thorns into the deep shade, but the dogs held well to him. I
sorely regretted the leather trowsers that were left behind, as my bare
legs were scarified and bleeding. I could not see the hyena, except one
glimpse when he brushed against my leg. At last the dogs surrounded him
in a patch of moonshine, four or five feet from where I was, and I put a
bullet through his back bone. The chase and the skurry made as exciting a
piece of sport as I ever witnessed. We had some rifle shooting at geese
and ducks, and Andersson slew a pan—the African bustard, and probably
the best flavoured and most tender game that exists: John Morta cooked
it with the utmost skill. I had returned from Jonker’s on the 8th of
February, and for three weeks we remained at Schmelen’s Hope, waiting for
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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