The National Geographic Magazine, Vol. I., No. 4, October, 1889 — John Shaqi
The National Geographic Magazine, Vol. I., No. 4, October, 1889Various
History
The National Geographic Magazine, Vol. I., No. 4, October, 1889
Various
Geography -- Periodicals
Riding away toward the sunset, I traversed the old plain without seeing
that it had had a continuous surface. I noted the many gullies, and I
lost in the multitude of details the wide level from which they were
carved. That the broader fact should be obscured by the many lesser
ones is no rare experience, and perhaps there is no class of
observations of which this has been more generally true than of those
involved in landscape study. But when once the Asheville plain has been
recognized, it can never again be ignored. It enters into every view,
both as an element of beauty and as evidence of change in the
conditions which determine topographic forms. Seldom in the mountains
can one get that distance of wooded level, rarely is the foreground so
like a gem proportioned to its setting; all about Asheville one meets
with glimpses of river and valley, sunken in reach beyond reach of
woodland which stretch away to the blue mountains. The even ridges form
natural roadsites, and in driving one comes ever and anon upon a fresh
view down upon the stream far across the plain and up to the heights.
And to the student of Appalachian history, the dissected plain is a
significant contradiction of the time honored phrase, "the everlasting
hills." That plain was a fact, the result of definite conditions of
erosion; it exists no more in consequence of changes. What were the
original conditions? In what manner have they changed? Let us take
account of certain other facts before suggesting an answer. Of the
mountains which wall the Asheville amphitheatre, the Blue Ridge on the
east and the Unaka chain on the west are the two important ranges. The
Blue Ridge forms the divide between the tributaries of the Atlantic and
those of the Gulf of Mexico, and the streams which flow westward from
it all pass through the Unaka chain. It would be reasonable to suppose
that the rivers rose in the higher and flowed through the lower of the
two ranges, but they do not. The Blue Ridge is an irregular,
inconspicuous elevation but little over 4000 feet above the sea; the
Unaka mountains form a massive chain from 5000 to 6500 feet in height.
That streams should thus flow through mountains higher than their
source was once explained by the assumption that they found passage
through rents produced by earth convulsions; but that vague guess
marked the early and insufficient appreciation of the power of streams
as channel cutters, and it has passed discredited into the history of
our knowledge of valley-formation. That rivers carve out the deepest
cañons, as well as the broadest valleys, is now a truism which we must
accept in framing hypotheses to account for the courses of the French
Broad and other similar streams. Moreover, since waters from a lower
Blue Ridge could never of their own impulse have flowed over the higher
Unaka, we are brought to the question, was the Blue Ridge once the
higher, or have streams working on the western slope of the Unaka range
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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