The National Geographic Magazine, Vol. I., No. 4, October, 1889Various
History
The National Geographic Magazine, Vol. I., No. 4, October, 1889
Various
Geography -- Periodicals
characters they usually bear; the former are dark and forbidding, wild
and inaccessible, the latter are broad and sunlit of softened form,
habitable and inhabited. All roads and villages are on the heights,
only passing travelers and those who prey upon them frequent the
depths.
These facts of form are not local, they are general: all the streams of
the Unaka mountains share the features of the French Broad Cañon, while
peaks like Great Roan, Big Bald, Mt. Guyot, are but examples of a
massive mountain form common throughout the range.
Thus the Unaka chain presents two peculiar facts for our consideration;
it is cut through by streams rising in a lower range, and its profiles
of erosion are convex upward not downward.
If we follow our river's course beyond the Unaka chain into the valley
of East Tennessee we shall still find the channel deeply cut; here and
there bottomlands appear, now on one side, now on the other, but the
banks are more often steep slopes or vertical cliffs from fifty to one
hundred feet high. The creeks and brooks meander with moderate fall
through the undulating surface of the valley, but they all plunge by a
more or less abrupt cascade into the main rivers. It is thus evident
that the tributaries cannot keep pace with the rivers in
channel-cutting, and the latter will continue to sink below the surface
of general degradation until their diminished fall reduces their rate
of corrasion below that of the confluent streams.
If from topographic forms we turn to consider the materials, the rocks,
of which they are composed, we shall find a general rule of relation
between relative elevation and rock-hardness. Thus the great valley of
East Tennessee has a general surface 3000 feet below the mean height of
the Unakas: it is an area of easily soluble, often soft, calcareous
rocks, while the mountains, consist of the most insoluble, the hardest,
silicious rocks. East of the Unakas the surface is again lower,
including the irregular divide, the Blue Ridge; here also, the
feldspathic gneisses and mica schists are, relatively speaking, easily
soluble, and non-coherent. What is thus broadly true is true in detail,
also where a more silicious limestone or a sandstone bed occurs in the
valley it forms a greater or less elevation above the surface of the
soft rocks; where a more soluble, less coherent stratum crops out in
the mountain mass, a hollow, a cove, corresponds to it. Of valley
ridges, Clinch mountain is the most conspicuous example; of mountain
hollows the French Broad valley at Hot Springs, or Tuckaleechee Cove
beneath the Great Smoky mountain, is a fair illustration.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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