The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to AlaskaBallou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
History
The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to Alaska
Ballou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
Alaska -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
The scenery of the Stickeen River is pronounced by Professor Muir to be
superb and grand beyond description. Three hundred glaciers are known to
drain into its swift running waters, over one hundred of which are to be
seen between Fort Wrangel and Glenora. Near the mouth of the river is
the curious ledge of garnet crystals, which furnishes stones of
considerable beauty and brilliancy, though not sufficiently clear to be
used as gems. Choice pieces are secured by visitors as cabinet
specimens, however, and can be had, if desired, by the bushel, at a
trifling cost. They occur in a matrix of slate-like formation, some so
large as to weigh two or three ounces, and diminishing from that size
they are found as small as a pin-head. It requires three days of hard
steaming against the current to ascend the river as far as Glenora from
the mouth, whereas the same distance returning, down stream, has
frequently been made in eight or ten hours. So necessarily rapid is the
descent of the Stickeen as to make the downward trip quite hazardous,
except in charge of a careful pilot. In the neighborhood of Fort Wrangel
there are some very active boiling springs, which the natives utilize,
as do the New Zealanders at Ohinemutu, by cooking their food in them.
In the crater of Goreloi, on Burned Island, is a vast boiling spring, or
rather a boiling lake, which has never been intelligently described, and
which is represented by those who have seen it to be unique. This
strange body of water is eighteen miles in circumference. The natives
are well supplied with legends relating to these remarkable natural
phenomena, including the extinct and active volcanoes. Genii and dreaded
spirits are supposed by them to dwell in the extinct volcanoes, and to
make their homes in the mountain caves. They believe that good spirits
will not harm them, and therefore do not address themselves to such, but
the evil ones must by some active means be propitiated, and to them
their sole attention is given, or, in other words, their religious
ceremonies when analyzed are simply devil worship. All of the tribes, if
we except the Aleuts, are held in abject fear by their conjurers or
medicine-men, who seemed to us to be the most arrant knaves conceivable,
not possessing one genuine quality to sustain their assumptions except
that of bold effrontery. This seems particularly strange, as the
aborigines of the Northwest are more than ordinarily intelligent,
compared with other half-civilized races, both in this and other lands.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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