The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to AlaskaBallou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
History
The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to Alaska
Ballou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
Alaska -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
From Pyramid Harbor we turn southward for a short distance, and then
again towards the north, soon reaching the ice-strewn waters of Glacier
Bay, an open expanse of ocean fully thirty miles long by from ten to
twelve in width. This locality is thus named because of the number of
glaciers which descend into it from the southern verge of the frozen
region. The still surface of the water reflects the Alpine scenery like
burnished silver, only ruffled now and again by the icebergs launched
from the majestic front of the Muir glacier, which fall with an
explosion like the blasting of rocks in a stone quarry. It is curious to
watch these enormous masses of ice rise to the surface after their first
deep plunge, see them settle and rise again until their equilibrium
becomes fixed, and then slowly float away with their imperial colors
displayed, to join the fleet gone before. They seem to exhibit in their
vivid colors a radiant joy at release from long imprisonment. It was a
gloriously bright day on which we approached the Muir glacier, the sun
pouring down its wealth of light and warmth to temper the crisp morning
air. A side-wheel steamer could not have made headway among the hundreds
of floating icebergs; but the Corona wound in and out among them in
safety, piloted by Captain Carroll’s skillful direction, occasionally
leaving the color of her painted hull along their sides by chafing them.
The ship was brought within fifty rods of the glacier’s threatening
front, which was about three hundred feet in height above the water,
standing like a frozen Niagara, and the lead showed it to extend four
hundred feet below the surface, making an aggregate of seven hundred
feet from top to bottom. What a mighty power was hidden behind the
dazzling drapery of its iridescent façade!
Standing upon its surface a short way inland, one could hear from its
depths what seemed like shrieks and groans of maddened spirits torturing
each other, as the huge mass was crowded more and more compactly between
the two abutting mountains of rock through which it found its outlet.
The roar of artillery upon a battlefield could hardly be more deafening
or incessant than were the thrilling reports caused by the falling of
vast masses of ice from the glacier’s front. Nothing could be grander or
more impressive than this steady bombardment from the ice mountain in
its resistless progress towards the sea. Neither Norway nor Switzerland
have any glacial or arctic scenery that can approach this bay in its
frigid splendor. No natives are to be seen; not a sound falls upon the
ear save the hoarse cannonading of the glacier. The white, ghostly hue
of the surroundings are startling; even the daylight assumes a certain
weird, bluish tint, heightened by shimmering reflections from the
ice-chasms and crevices.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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