The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to AlaskaBallou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
History
The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to Alaska
Ballou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
Alaska -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
The author, in a varied experience of many parts of the world, recalls
but two other occasions which affected him so powerfully as this first
visit to Glacier Bay in Alaska, namely: witnessing the sun rise over the
vast Himalayan range, the roof-tree of the globe, at Darjeeling, in
northern India, and the view of the midnight sun from the North Cape in
Norway, as it hung over the Polar Sea. Our power of appreciation is
limitless, though that of description is circumscribed. Here both are
challenged to their utmost capacity. Words are insufficient; pen and
pencil inadequate to convey the grandeur and fascination of the scene.
Lieutenant Frederick Schwatka tells us that a veteran traveler said to
him as they stood together on the ship’s deck regarding the scenery in
this remarkable bay: “You can take just what you see here and put it
down on Switzerland, and it will hide all there is of mountain scenery
in Europe. I have been all over the world, but you are now looking at a
scene that has not its parallel elsewhere on the globe.” The estimate
has been made by experienced persons that five thousand living glaciers,
of greater or less dimensions, are now steadily traveling down towards
the sea in this vast Territory of Alaska.
Glacier Bay is always full of vagrant icebergs which are of blinding
whiteness when under the glare of the midday sun. The variety of colors
emitted by the bergs is charming to the eye, the prevailing hues being
crystal-white mingled with azure blue, a faint touch of pink appearing
here and there, together with dainty gleams of orange-yellow. Where a
large smooth surface is presented, the prismatic shimmering is like that
of starlight upon the water. The variety in the shape of the bergs is
infinite. Some of them exhibit singularly correct architectural lines,
some resemble ruins of ancient castles on the Rhine, others, with a
little help of the imagination, represent wild animals in various
attitudes, or hideous Chinese idols with open mouths and lolling
tongues. Sea birds hover over and light in large numbers upon the
opalescent masses. Ranging alongside of a tall berg, a fall and tackle
was rigged out from the yard-arm of our steamer, while men were sent to
cut large blocks of ice from the hill of frozen water. Two weighing
nearly a ton each were hoisted on board to keep our larder cool and fill
the ship’s ice-chest. The ice was pure as crystal, and fresh as a
mountain stream.
“Why don’t you go nearer to the glacier?” asked one of the passengers of
the captain.
“Because I think we are quite near enough,” was the quiet reply.
“Those avalanches don’t reach more than thirty or forty feet from the
face of the ice cliff,” continued the passenger.
“True,” was the reply, “but they do not constitute the only discharges
from the glacier.”
“Why, where else can they occur but from the face,” asked the inquirer.
“Shall I tell you a certain experience which I had near this very spot?”
asked the captain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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