The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to AlaskaBallou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
History
The New Eldorado: A Summer Journey to Alaska
Ballou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
Alaska -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
On the evening before we left Sitka a brass band consisting of
twenty-one performers marched down to the wharf from the mission school,
in good military order, headed by their teacher as band-master, and
serenaded the passengers. The band was composed entirely of native boys,
the oldest not over eighteen, not one of whom had ever seen a brass
musical instrument two years ago. They performed eight or ten elaborate
pieces of composition, not passably well, but admirably, in perfect
time, and with real feeling for the music they expressed. It was a
surprise to every one on board the Corona to hear such a performance by
natives in this isolated spot in the far north. A liberal purse was
handed to the teacher to be divided among them.
“Do you know what they will do with this money?” he asked, gratefully.
“Purchase some trifle, each one after his own fancy,” we replied.
“No, sir,” said the teacher, “they will tell me, every one of them, to
purchase some new music with the money, which they can practice and
learn to play together.”
Their means are of course quite circumscribed, and they have had but
little variety afforded them, either in school-books or music. They look
upon their musical tuition as a reward for good behavior, and the
severest punishment to them is to be deprived of any favorite branch of
instruction.
At our final view of Sitka, the quaint capital of Alaska was lying quiet
and peacefully at the feet of Vestova, while enshrouded in a voluptuous
sheen of afternoon sunlight. A rose-glow rested on everything,
beautifying the simplest objects. Lofty, thickly-wooded hills formed the
background, while the Greek church and the old castle dominated all the
humbler buildings. The waters of the island-dotted bay were as still as
an inland lake, and flooded with golden reflections. Now and again an
eagle sailed gracefully from one wooded height to another, and the
hoarse croak of many ravens, held sacred by the Indians, greeted the
ear. A few United States soldiers lounged about their barracks, and a
few cannon were arranged upon the broad common. These were light
fieldpieces, more for show than for use. Groups of natives clad in
bright-colored blankets were seen here and there before their simple
dwellings which line the beach. A broad, intensely green plateau forms
the centre of the settlement, about which the better houses of the
whites are situated. A little to the left, nearer to the hills, is the
curiously arranged burial-ground of the aborigines, with a few
totem-poles, and many boxes reared above ground in which are deposited
the remains of former chiefs. On a slight rise of ground stands the
ancient blockhouse, built of logs, from which the Russians once made a
desperate fight with the natives. Behind us Mount Edgecombe loomed far
up among the clouds, where its apex was half hidden, and in the same
direction, not far away, was the open Pacific. It was nearly ten o’clock
P. M.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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