The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
ALTHOUGH the road to Newmarket lay, as we have seen, chiefly through
Epping, Chesterford, and Bishop’s Stortford from the earliest days of
coaching, this route was, in earlier times of travel, but one of
several. A favourite way was along the Old North Road, through Enfield,
Ware, Puckeridge, and Royston, whence wayfarers might branch off to the
right, by way of Whittlesford and Pampisford, or might go through
Melbourn, Harston, and Cambridge. Travellers were shy of venturing into
the glades of Epping Forest, infested beyond the ordinary run with
dangerous characters, and rather braved the rigours of the open downs
than encounter the terrors of the shrouded woodlands. James I., with his
passion for the chase and his hunting-palace at Royston, early
established a fox-hunting lodge at Newmarket, and had, with his
magnificent palace of Theobalds, at Cheshunt, a series of reasons for
travelling this route. The road was bad, of course, in those times: they
all were. The only difference in them was that when all were bad others
were merely worse. But when any particular road became a kingly route,
attempts were made to improve it, and thus we read that so early as 1609
one Thomas Norton, “way-maker” to his Majesty, was at work on the
problem of repairing “the highewayes leadinge to and from the Citty of
London to the towns of Royston and Newmarkett, for his Ma^{ties} better
passage in goeing and cominge to his recreations in those parts.” No
silly nonsense, you will observe, about public benefit, nor anything in
the way of excusing the thing on the ground of the King’s business
demanding it. His Majesty’s amusements, we are frankly allowed to see,
were at stake, and that was reason sufficient.
Mr. Thomas Norton was not, after all, paid very much for his services.
In 1609 he received £29 10_s._, and a pittance continued afterwards to
be doled out to him.
The way to Newmarket, however, still continued to be a matter of
individual taste and fancy. When James was visited there in February,
1615, by Mr. Secretary Winwood on State business, he journeyed by
Epping, Chesterford, and Bishop’s Stortford, returning the same way. He
travelled with a wondrous rapidity, too, when we consider what
travelling then was; and although he _did_ complain of “a sore journey,
as the wayes are,” did actually succeed in returning to London in one
day, by dint of having on his way down made arrangements for coaches to
be “laid for him” at three several places. Two years later the Swedish
Ambassador travelled to Newmarket to pay his respects to the King. He
went by Royston in two days, sleeping at Puckeridge the first night, and
returned by Cambridge, Newport (where he stayed the night), and Waltham.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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