The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
Of Newton St. Faith, scarce more than a mile down the road, there is
little to be said, but its few houses are succeeded by the loveliest two
miles of highway in Norfolk. Enclosed fields, trim with their neat
hedges and long lines of wheat and barley, or well-ordered in their
infinite perspectives of winter furrows, give place suddenly to a land
rich in the varied tints of bracken and heather, and wooded, now in
dense clumps, or again in isolated trees. These are the fairy-like woods
of Stratton Strawless. The peculiar beauty of these ferny glades is
chiefly due to the large numbers of silver birch—that airy and graceful
“lady of the forest”—intermingled with the dark pines, the grey beeches,
and the sturdy oaks that all go to make up the ranks of the Stratton
woods, whose picturesque _abandon_ is greatly added to by their being
open to the road. For this is common land, and before Robert Marsham
planted it in 1797, was a stretch of heath, barren of aught save heather
and bracken. It is, in fact, in the existence of this ancient heath that
Blomefield, the historian of Norfolk, rightly or wrongly, found the
origin of the “Strawless” in the place-name, for he points out that no
corn could have been grown here. His finding is probably wrong, for Mr.
Walter Rye, eminent in Norfolk archæology, has found it was “Stratton
Streles” in the time of Henry III., and that the name almost certainly
is Danish, deriving from the village of Stroeden Strelev in Denmark.
We need not hasten to acclaim the Marsham who created these woods as a
public benefactor, because he did not aim at anything of the kind, and
merely wished to improve the outlook from his hideous house, now
confronted with these glades, instead of by a monotonous flat. There is
no denying the ugliness of that square brick mansion. A benefactor would
have hidden it from the public gaze, but it is, instead, rather
ostentatiously on view from the road, across a wide, uninterrupted
stretch of grassy meadow. The lodges are far more endurable than the
mansion, and although built in the same dull brick, in a manner fondly
thought classic, the brilliant coat of whitewash given them makes their
clumsiness almost picturesque.
[Illustration: STRATTON STRAWLESS LODGES.]
The village lies nearly a mile away from the road, past the reedy lakes
that follow the course of a little stream. In the church may yet be seen
the monuments of Marshams, from 1250 onwards; together with a window
filled with probably the very worst stained glass on earth.
With regret we leave these lovely woods for the cultivated and more
prosaic lands towards Hevingham, whose great church, overlooking the
road from its knoll, is a mile distant from the village. It is a church
with lofty nave, but no aisles, and, restored with more thoroughness
than discretion, has been swept clean of any possible interest. But its
noble south porch, and the gigantic sweet-chestnut tree in the
churchyard, give the spot an air of distinction.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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