The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
The alabaster tomb, with life-sized and coloured effigy of Esther
Salusburye in the Lancaster Chapel, is found unexpectedly by the
stranger, behind the organ. The full-length figure lying there, so
naturally coloured and dressed in the height of fashion of that bygone
year of 1604, when she died, is so extraordinarily lifelike that one
almost shrieks with momentary fright; and indeed the work is so perfect,
it rather resembles a human being masquerading as an effigy than a mere
carved and painted mass of stone. Her high-heeled shoes, the
black-painted Early Jacobean skirt and bodice, with the deep lace cuffs,
generous ruff, and high-crowned hat, form a perfect picture of an
English lady’s costume in the days when James I. was King.
[Illustration: THE “OLD BELL,” STANSTED.
_From a drawing by P. Palfrey._]
Stansted Street, skirting the main road with its old-fashioned but
nondescript houses, has lost much of its picturesqueness of late years.
The “White Bear,” kept in old times by Daniel Gilbey, and the “Old Bell”
have disappeared, and it rejoices in a very new and ornate white brick
house, designed in the snoburban style of architecture. A horse at full
stretch is carved over the door, together with the inscription,
“Galloping Villa.” If you ask any of the admiring villagers for
information about this astonishing house, and why “Galloping,” they tell
you “it belongs to Mr. ——, of the roundabouts.” Immediately opposite is
a house and shop, whose builder or owner appears to have been
extraordinarily proud of his building, for it bears not only the date of
the year, but even the day of the particular month when it was finished:
“L.S.T., July y^e 25, 1759.”
The very handsome old red-brick house, standing high above the road on
approaching Ugley, and attracting attention by its fine wrought-iron
gates and general air of distinction, is Orford House, built by Admiral
Edward Russell, who commanded the allied English and Dutch fleets in
their victory over the French at La Hague in 1692. The Admiral was
created Earl of Orford in 1727.
The country grows particularly pretty as we approach Ugley, fields
giving place to dense plantations, with oak woods and almost
impenetrable coverts, presenting a vivid picture to the mind’s eye of
what the great Forest of Essex must have been like in the long ago.
“What’s in a name?” asks Shakespeare. Not much here, if we take that of
Ugley by its sound; but a good deal if we make due enquiry, for it is
really “Oakley,” the “oak meadow,” and, as Oakley, we do actually now
find certain upstart signposts and wayside parish marks naming it.
Again, if we leave the road and take the footpath that leads across a
meadow (? the original “oak lea”) to the church, we shall find in the
little churchyard the tombstone of an incumbent, dead not long since,
who is described as vicar of “Oakley.” He had probably been a lifelong
sufferer from the old rhymed pleasantry:—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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