From a distance the American fall looks quite straight. When we
stand beside it we see that its line curves inward and outward,
throwing the falling sheet into bastion-like sweeps. As we gaze
down upon these, every change in the angle of vision and in the
strength and direction of the light gives a new effect. The one
thing that we never seem to see, below the smooth brink, is
water. Very often the whole swift precipice shows as a myriad
million inch-thick cubes of clearest glass or ice or solidified
light, falling in an envelope of starry spangles. Again, it
seems all diamond-like or pearl-like, or like a flood of flaked
silver, shivered crystal, or faceted ingots of palest amber. It
is never to be exhausted in its variations. It is never to be
described. Only, one can always say, it is protean, it is most
lovely, and it is not water.
Then, as we look across the precipice, it may be milky in
places, or transparent, or translucent. But where its mass falls
quickly it is all soft and white--softer then anything else in
the world. It does not resemble a flood of fleece or of down,
although it suggests such a flood. It is more like a crumbling
avalanche, immense and gently blown, of smallest snowflakes;
but, again, it is not quite like this. Now we see that, even
apart from its main curves, no portion of the swiftly moving
wall is flat. It is all delicately fissured and furrowed, by the
broken edges of the rock over which it falls, into the
suggestion of fluted buttresses, half-columns, pilasters. And
the whiteness of these is not quite white. Nor is it
consistently iridescent or opalescent. Very faintly, elusively,
it is tinged with tremulous stripes and strands of pearly grey,
of vaguest straw, shell-pink, lavender, and green--inconceivably
ethereal blues, shy ghosts of earthly colours, abashed and
deflowered, we feel, by definite naming with earthly names. They
seem hardly to tinge the whiteness; rather, to float over it as
a misty bloom. We are loath to turn our eyes from them, fearing
they may never show again. Yet they are as real as the keen
emerald of the Horseshoe.[10]
One should walk through the New York State Reservation, which extends
for some distance above the commencement of the Rapids, to get a more
complete view of the scenery above the Falls, the wooded shores of Goat
Island, the swiftly moving waters, the broad river, the beginning of the
Canadian Rapids, and the Canadian shore in the distance. On up the river
at a distance are to be seen those forest-clad shores of Navy Island and
Grand Island.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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