The Nile quest : $b a record of the exploration of the Nile and its basinJohnston, Harry
History
The Nile quest : $b a record of the exploration of the Nile and its basin
Johnston, Harry
Nile River
When the intensity of the Dervish rule was slackening, in the early
nineties of the last century various Belgian officers, such as
Lieutenant Van Kerckhoven, passed the Congo basin to the Bahr-al-Arab
and the westernmost tributaries of the Bahr-al-Ghazal, and threw
a little fresh light on the still mysterious hydrography of the
Nile-Shari water-parting. They pointed the way, however, to Joseph
Marchand and his associates. This gallant band of Frenchmen, in
1897, made their way from the Mbomu River (Congo basin) down
the Jur (Sue) to the Bahr-al-Ghazal and the White Nile, to face
England at Fashoda. Marchand was accompanied, amongst other European
officers and non-commissioned officers, by Lieutenants A. H. Dyé and
Tanguedec. Tanguedec remained till 1900 on the Mountain Nile near the
Bahr-az-Ziraf. Dyé gave, in 1902, some account of the explorations of
the Bahr-al-Ghazal region undertaken by the Marchand expedition. The
swamps which characterise the northeastern part of the Bahr-al-Ghazal
province render the definite mapping of the lower courses of its great
rivers extremely difficult. Nevertheless, in the most systematic way,
Marchand and his companions, in their little steam launch _Faidherbe_,
surveyed the Sue or Jur (the longest stream flowing into the
Bahr-al-Ghazal estuary), the Bahr-al-Arab, Bahr-al-Hamr, the Tonj, and
Rōl.
The Bahr-al-Ghazal itself, from Mashra-ar-Rak downwards, was carefully
surveyed, and many indications were found of the changes which have
taken place since the days of its early explorers, though M. Dyé
considers the sketch given by Lejean in 1862 as wonderfully correct in
its general outlines.
After describing the ferruginous laterite plateau, which occupies
the whole southern part of the Bahr-al-Ghazal province, as well as
adjoining parts on the Congo basin, Lieutenant Dyé sketches the
transition from this region, in which the streams flow in steep-sided
valleys to the sea of swamps which lies along the ninth parallel. It is
in about 7° 20′ north that the first change occurs, the river-banks
opening out and leaving between them an alluvial-flood plain, grassy
and intersected by swamps, through which the river winds in a tortuous
course, much choked by sand-banks. At the height of the rains this
is entirely flooded. Still lower, the rocky valley sides entirely
disappear, and the clayey banks sink below the mean water-level, the
rivers becoming more and more narrow, and diminishing in depth until
they are finally lost, each in its own belt of swamp, which forms a sea
of grass, “Um Suf” [fleecy reeds], and papyrus.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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