They were dressed in the fanciful gala costume of the country, with the _maxtlatl_, or cotton sash, around their loins, and a broad mantle of the same material, or of the brilliant feather-embroidery, flowing gracefully down their shoulders. On their necks and arms they displayed collars and bracelets of turquoise mosaic, with which delicate plumage was curiously mingled, while their ears, under-lips, and occasionally their noses, were garnished with pendants formed of precious stones, or crescents of fine gold[111].... Montezuma wore the girdle and ample square cloak, _tilmatli_,[112] of his nation. It was made of the finest cotton, with the embroidered ends gathered in a knot around his neck. His feet were defended by sandals having soles of gold, and the leathern thongs which bound them to his ankles were embossed with the same metal. Both the cloak and sandals were sprinkled with pearls and precious stones, among which the emerald and the _chalchivitl_—a green stone of higher estimation than any other among the Aztecs—were conspicuous. On his head he wore no other ornament than a _panache_ of plumes of the royal green which floated down his back, the badge of military, rather than of regal rank.”[113] [Illustration: A PUEBLOAN OF SAN JUAN, NEW MEXICO] These quotations from Prescott will give an idea of the costume of the Mexicans, and of the beautiful feather-work which formed so important a part of it. Though the language of Prescott may somewhat exaggerate the quality and beauty of the Mexican garments, we know from what the Mexicans and Pueblos manufactured afterward that much skill must have been displayed in these various fabrics. The cloak of cotton was probably no more a cloak or mantle than the blankets woven by the Pueblos and Navajos to-day; that is, it was a square of cloth worn about the shoulders. If one should describe the Pueblo in Prescott’s delightful language, we should think him and his houses and garments far finer than they really are. To describe a breech-cloth as a girdle round the loins; to speak of blankets as mantles and robes; moccasins as sandals, and otherwise gild description, makes pleasant reading, but is liable to convey erroneous impressions. Prescott’s lack of general knowledge of Amerind customs gave him a free rein and his poetical temperament finished the picture. [Illustration: METHOD OF MAKING FEATHER-WORK]