The North Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The North Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
So far, this is literally true, and the name of Castle Rock, given
to one of these stony heights, grimly coroneted with masses of rock,
is excellently descriptive. The rocks so closely resemble towers and
battlements that the stranger is often deceived into thinking them to
be real masonry. A companion rocky hill, isolated midway in the valley,
and called “Ragged Jack,” from its notched outline, is almost equally
castellated.
It is only when the account already quoted proceeds to dilate upon the
“awful vestiges of convulsion and desolation presenting themselves,
and inspiring the most sublime ideas,” that we do not quite follow,
and we suspect this was the outcome of much competitive writing; each
succeeding writer striving to pile phrase upon phrase, very much after
the manner in which the rocks of the Valley of Rocks are heaped upon
one another.
The “Devil’s Cheese-wring” is the name of one of these curious stony
piles, now partly overgrown with ivy. The Valley and the cheese-wring
are mentioned in “Lorna Doone,” a romance no one can escape in North
Devon, strive though he may; although, really, the Doone Valley and
almost every incident of that story, are in, and concerned with,
Somerset.
A wind-swept little wood is almost the only sign of vegetation, except
the coarse grass, in this wild valley of grey stones; but it is the
appalling heat, rather than the wind, which troubles the tourist in his
passage, and he is often fain to shelter awhile in the welcome shade
of some huge crag; thinking, as he does so, of that eloquent passage
in Isaiah, “The shadow of a great rock in a weary land.” And really,
the Valley of Rocks is very like the parched, stony land of Palestine,
which suggested the phrase.
It is at the close of some sultry summer day that the Valley of Rocks
looks its very best. The irradiated sky, throwing into silhouette the
great masses of rock, has the effect of magnifying and glorifying them.
On such summer evenings, the more youthful among the holiday-makers
set out from Lynton, and there, on the rugged hillside of the Castle
Rock or Ragged Jack, you may see the white frocks of the girls, looking
more than a little like the white-robed figures of those Druids, who,
according to old Polwhele, used this place of desolation as a temple,
and carved the roughly shaped rock-pillars and granite hollows into
“rock idols” and “sacrificial basins.” On the summit of Castle Rock
a “white lady” of a different kind may be seen; a curious figure,
resembling a woman, formed by a huge slab of rock fallen between two
upright masses. The resemblance is sufficiently close to startle
strangers coming this way at night.
The road goes under the rugged hills, past the little inlet of
Wringcliff Bay, overhung with ferny precipices, to a gate leading into
the domain of Lee Abbey. All kinds of wheeled traffic may go through by
lodge and gate, except motor vehicles--they are forbidden.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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