The North Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The North Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
There are great numbers of amiable, but characterless, people, who
have so little individuality or so much exaggerated loyalty for
Royal personages and reverent respect for the aristocracy, that the
well-advertised fact of those bright and shining ones having visited
this resort, that, and the other is sufficient to make the fortune of
those places. Many years ago, the then Prince of Wales made holiday at
Ilfracombe, and the local guide-books have never allowed visitors to
forget the fact, even although it was when he was a boy. He went out
riding a pony known afterwards to fame as “Bobby.” Alas! poor Bobby.
As the guide-books have cleverly discovered, even “the fact of
having carried a Royal personage did not render Bobby immortal, and
his death deprived Ilfracombe of an attraction to its visitors, and a
large income to its owner.” It was a sorry thing for Bobby that ever
he carried a Prince of Wales, for, ever afterwards, he was condemned
to the drudgery of long, long days carrying the children of the lower
middle (and super-loyal) classes. To seat little Frankie or little
Cissie upon that sanctified pony was, in some vague way, to come into
touch with the Royal family; to give him a carrot was equivalent to
(but less expensive than) presenting a purse to a Princess at a charity
meeting. Bobby was transfigured, like the objects sung by the satirist:
“A clod--a piece of orange-peel--
An end of a cigar--
Once trod on by a princely heel,
How beautiful they are!”
But the poor animal’s glory was hardly earned. Loyalty, expressed in
terms of an unending burden of children, at last wore him out, and he
died.
For a loving list of the great who have visited the town, you must
please to look in those guide-books for yourselves, but we learn that
“no year passes without some distinguished personage treading the
ground of beautiful Ilfracombe, and giving another start to a new
chapter of the town’s progress as a fashionable resort.” That remains
true; I, myself, was there last year.
The old parish church has of late been little altered. It stands high
at the west end of the principal street, midway between the deeps of
the harbour and the alpine heights on which the railway terminus is
placed, and its approach is by a steep flight of stone stairs.
There is something of almost every architectural period in Ilfracombe
church, but the workmanship was ever of so homely a character that the
styles all blend into one rude mass. The tower ascends in a singular
diminishing fashion. In the large and crowded churchyard you notice
most distinctly, as you are indeed intended to do, a stone recording
no fewer than nine centenarians who lived and died at Ilfracombe
between 1784 and 1897. This by way of advertisement of the astonishing
salubrity of the place; but an inhabitant of Brighton chancing this way
would be amused. At Brighton there are generally to be found half a
dozen hale and hearty centenarians.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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